Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [567]
Salisbury Pub (Map; 223-2389; 2nd fl, Shigenobu Bldg, 1-5 Gofuku-chō; 6.30pm-1am, closed Tue) Opposite Mitsukoshi department store, this classy, quiet bar appeals to a 30-something crowd and stocks a good selection of foreign beers and wines. Food is available, but the menu is in Japanese.
Beer Reise (Map; 227-0088; Basement, Hirata Bldg, 9-10 Sennichi-chō; 6pm-1am) This cheery narrow basement bar has Guinness and Kilkenny on tap and a happy hour from 6pm to 7pm.
Kanejō (Map; 223-0487; 2nd fl, 7-20 Higashi-sengoku-chō) Chinese tea house by day, jazz bar by night, this quaint little spot is a nice place to soothe those traveller’s blues.
Entertainment
Wine & Jazz Pannonica (Map; 216-3430; 2nd fl, 7-10 Higashi-sengoku-chō; 6pm-2am, closed Mon) The original Pannonica closed in 2000 and was replaced with this restaurant for discerning adults, with occasional live jazz on weekends.
Recife (Map; 258-9774; 2-1-5 Takashi) Arty and cool, this mellow multipurpose bar-restaurant also has DJ decks and hosts occasional parties. It’s popular with locals and expat groovers and has a strong Brazilian flavour.
Latin Dining & Sports Bar El Para (Map; 223-3464; 2nd fl, Diamond Bldg, 11-7 Yamanokuchi-chō; 6pm-1am, closed Mon) There’s an awesome menu of tapas here, including spicy buffalo chicken wings. Think cosy booths, sports on the big screen and darts.
Shopping
Regional specialities include a variation of Japanese doll, and cards printed with inks produced from Sakurajima volcanic ash. Sakurajima ash is used in the making of Sakurajima pottery, but the main ceramic wares are white and black Satsuma-yaki (a term used to describe a wide range of styles heralding from the Satsuma region). Imo jōchū (see the boxed text, right) is the drink of choice.
Futaya (Map; 222-5261; 5-20 Yasui-chō) Sells vintage kimonos and inexpensive gifts, near Nakazono Ryokan.
Asa-ichi (Morning Market; Map; 6am-noon Mon-Sat) Kagoshima’s morning market is just south of JR Kagoshima-Chūō Station.
Dolphin Port (Map; 226-2233; 5-4 Honminato-shinmachi) On the Kagoshima waterfront; a pleasant place for a stroll with a selection of tempting boutiques and eateries.
You can shop for traditional merchandise and local produce at Sengan-en (Iso-teien; Click here) and Kagoshima Brand Shop (Map; 225-6120; 1st fl, Sangyo Kaikan bldg, 9-1 Meizan-chō; 9am-5pm) in Tenmonkan.
Amu Plaza at JR Kagoshima-Chūō Station is brimming with retail opportunities.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Kagoshima airport has connections to Hong Kong, Shanghai and Seoul, and convenient domestic flights to Tokyo (¥38,900, 1½ hours), Osaka (¥26,800, one hour), Fukuoka (¥18,600, 45 minutes), Yakushima (¥13,900, 30 minutes) and Okinawa (Naha; ¥26,300, 85 minutes).
BOAT
Ferries shuttle every 10 to 30 minutes across the bay to Sakurajima (¥150, 15 minutes). Jetfoils depart from Kita-futō (north wharf) to Yakushima (from ¥7000, three hours). Regular ferries to Yakushima depart from Minami-futō (south wharf; from ¥4200, 13 hours). From Kagoshima Shin-kō (Kagoshima New Port), Queen Coral Marix Line (225-1551) has ferries to Naha (Okinawa) via the Amami archipelago (¥14,600, 25 hours).
BUS
Long-distance buses depart from the Express Bus Centre opposite Amu Plaza. Highway bus stops are also near Kagoshima-Chūō Station and Yamakataya (Map) in Tenmonkan.
Routes include Miyazaki (¥2700, 2¾ hours), Fukuoka (¥5300, four hours), Oita (¥5500, six hours) and overnight to Osaka (¥12,000, 12 hours).
Hayashida buses to Ebino-kōgen (¥1550, two hours) depart from JR Kagoshima-Chūō Station.
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DRINKING SHŌCHŪ
The drink of choice throughout Kyūshū is shōchū, a strong distilled liquor. The island’s southern region claims the highest consumption in Japan, which may well contribute to the generally relaxed vibe! Each prefecture is known for its own particular variety. In Kumamoto, it’s usually made from rice; in Oita, barley. But in the izakaya (pub-eatery)