Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [570]
Daily bus tours to Ibusuki and Chiran depart from JR Kagoshima-Chūō Station. A daily sightseeing bus (¥4550) heads off to Chiran at 8.50am, whizzes you around the sights and then does the same thing in Ibusuki, ending the day with a soak in a hot spring.
Chiran
0993 / pop 13,453
Chiran, 34km south of Kagoshima, is a pretty village with a lovely river, a superb collection of restored samurai houses and a fascinating memorial to WWII’s kamikaze pilots. Chiran was one of the major bases from which fighters left on their final missions.
All seven of the residences along Chiran’s street of samurai houses (; 83-2511; admission ¥500; 9am-5pm), dating from the mid-Edo period, are noted for their gardens. Look for the use of ‘borrowed scenery’. Water is usually symbolised by sand or gravel. A well-stocked carp stream runs parallel to the samurai street.
Taki-An () is a traditional house and garden on the samurai street where you can sit on tatami mats to eat a bowl of hot soba (¥600) and sip Chiran’s famous green tea.
The Kamikaze Peace Museum (; 83-2525; admission ¥500; 9am-4.30pm), 2km west of town, presents a collection of aircraft, mementos and photographs belonging to the fresh-faced young men selected for the Special Attack Corps in WWII. It’s a moving tribute and a reminder of the tragedy of war.
Kagoshima Kōtsū buses to Chiran (¥920, 80 minutes) run from JR Kagoshima-Chūō Station and the Yamakataya bus station in Tenmonkan. From Chiran, infrequent buses run to Ibusuki (¥940, 65 minutes), leaving from stops along the highway.
Ibusuki
0993 / pop 46,250
At the southeastern end of the Satsuma Peninsula, 50km from Kagoshima, is the hot-spring resort of Ibusuki. It’s quiet, especially in the low season, and more especially after dark. Ibusuki Station is about 1km from the beachfront and most accommodation, but the few eateries are near the station. The station information desk (22-2111; 8.30am-5pm) has basic maps and can assist with directions.
ACTIVITIES
Ibusuki’s raison d’etre, the reputedly blood-cleansing Tennen Sunamushi Kaikan (; 23-3900; admission ¥900; 8.30am-noon & 1-9pm) sand baths, are located on the beachfront. Pay at the entrance, change into the provided yukata and wander down to the beach where the shovel ladies are waiting to bury you in hot volcanic sand. Reactions range from panic to euphoria. Fifteen minutes is recommended, but many stay longer. When you’re through, head back up to soak in the onsen.
Yoshi-no-yu (; 22-3556; admission ¥300; 2pm-9pm, closed Thu) is a delightful onsen with pretty rotemburo set in a garden.
SLEEPING & EATING
Tamaya Youth Hostel (; 22-3553; dm with 2 meals/breakfast ¥4915/3970) Loves Lonely Planet readers and is the closest hostel to the sand baths. Look for the palm tree out the front.
Minshuku Marutomi (; 22-5579; fax 22-3993; r with 2 meals from ¥7500) A homely inn around the corner from Ryokan Ginshō serves its guests delicious fresh-seafood dinners.
Iwasaki Hotel (; 22-2131; http://ibusuki.iwasakihotels.com/en; tw from ¥15,015; ) Straight out of 1980s Hawaii, this massive, kitsch, kid-friendly resort hotel has a golf course, onsen, pools and acres of landscaped gardens. All rooms face the ocean. The beachfront summer beer garden is lots of fun.
Ryokan Ginshō (; 22-3231; www .ginsyou.co.jp in Japanese; r per person with 2 meals from ¥15,750; ) The exquisite 9th-floor rotemburo of this upscale beachfront ryokan has lantern-lit shower stalls and a lovely relaxation garden. Ocean-facing rooms start from ¥17,850 and rooms with baths on the balcony are available.
Aoba (; 22-3356; dishes from ¥480; lunch & dinner, closed Wed) A two-minute walk to the left of the station exit you’ll find this pretty grey building with white noren door hangings and plants out the front. The kurobuta roosukatsu (crumbed black pork cutlet) teishoku for ¥1320 will satisfy most, but a true gourmet would try the Satsuma jidori sashimi (raw sliced chicken) for ¥780.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Ibusuki is less than two hours from Kagoshima by bus (¥850).