Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [571]
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AROUND SATSUMA PENINSULA
Inhabited by giant eels, Ikeda-ko is a volcanic caldera lake west of Ibusuki. South of the lake is Cape Nagasaki-bana, from where you can see offshore islands on a clear day.
The beautifully symmetrical 924m cone of Kaimon-dake can be climbed in two hours from the Kaimon-dake bus stop, or from JR Jamakawa Station and JR Kaimon Station. An early start may reward you with views of Sakurajima, Cape Sata, and Yakushima and Tanegashima islands.
At the southwestern end of the peninsula is Makurazaki, a busy port famous for katsuo (bonito) and the terminus for the train line from Kagoshima. Just beyond Makurazaki is Bōnotsu, a fishing village that was an unofficial trading link with the outside world via Okinawa during Japan’s two centuries of seclusion.
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ŌSUMI PENINSULA
Marked by the oldest lighthouse in Japan, at the tip of the Ōsumi Peninsula on the opposite side of Kagoshima Bay, Cape Sata is the southernmost point of Japan’s four main islands. You can reach the cape from the Kagoshima side by taking the ferry (¥600, 50 minutes) from Yamakawa, a stop south of Ibusuki, to Nejime on the other side, but public transport onward is nearly impossible. It’s at least an hour by car to the 8km bicycle and walking track that leads down to the end of the cape. If you’re determined to get here, the best option is to rent a car (Click here).
The glass-bottomed Sata-Day-Go (0994-27-3355; 30min tours adult/child ¥2000/1000), offers day cruises to see the coral, sea turtles, fugu (pufferfish), dolphins and even sharks.
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MIYAZAKI-KEN
The Miyazaki region is the mythical home of the sun goddess Amaterasu, who it is said took refuge in a remote cave here, plunging the world into darkness. Only after her fellow gods lured her out did light and warmth return to the land of the rising sun.
Rte 222 from Miyakonojō to Obi and Nichinan twists through the hills by the sea. Although there are train and bus services, the most rewarding way to explore this diverse prefecture is by car.
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MIYAZAKI
0985 / pop 311,098
Miyazaki has a balmy climate and some of the best surfing in Japan, particularly at Kizaki-hama and other beaches north towards Hyūga. Many areas around Miyazaki played an important part in early Japanese civilisation, and are recorded in Japan’s oldest chronicle, the Kojiki. Interesting excavations can be seen at Saitobaru.
Information
Inside JR Miyazaki Station, the tourist information centre (22-6469; 9am-6.30pm) has maps of the city and surroundings. There’s an international ATM at the southern end of the station, and at the central post office, five minutes’ walk west along Takachiho-dōri. Opposite the post office, the Miyazaki Prefectural International Plaza (32-8457; 8th fl, Carino Bldg; 10am-7pm Mon-Sat) has satellite TV and foreign-language newspapers and magazines.
Further along Takachiho-dōri, Emutto Internet & Comics (28-2266; 3rd fl, Maruya Bldg, 1-2-4 Shimizu; open seating per 30min ¥180, after 9pm for 12hr in a booth ¥2000; 24hr) has internet. There’s a Cybac Café (61-7562; 2nd fl, Drug 11 Bldg, 3-4-26 Ōhashi; access from ¥280; 24hr) in an alley before the bridge.
Sights
MIYAZAKI SCIENCE CENTRE
A short walk from Miyazaki Station, this interactive science museum (23-2700; 38-3 Miyawakichō; admission with sky show ¥730; 9am-4pm, closed Mon) boasts one of the world’s largest planetariums. English-language pamphlets are available.
MIYAZAKI-JINGŪ & MUSEUM
This shrine (27-4004; 2-4-1 Jingū) honours the Emperor Jimmu, the semimythical first emperor of Japan and founder of the Yamato court. Spectacular 600-year-old wisteria vines cover the thickly forested grounds. It’s a 500m walk from Miyazaki-jingū Station.
Just north of the shrine grounds, the Miyazaki Prefectural Museum of Nature & History (24-2071; 2-4-4 Jingū; admission free; 9am-4.30pm, closed Tue) has exhibits on local history, archaeology,