Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [573]
La Dish Gourmet & Deli (32-7929; 1-1 Chuōdōri; 11am-3am Mon-Sat, 6pm-1am Sun) Amid the hustle of the entertainment district, this import grocery store sells both cold and hot deli items, plus a good selection of wines, cheeses and desserts.
Don Don Ju (26-6126; 1st fl, Dai 2 Yoshino Bldg, 2-11 Chūōdōri; dishes ¥300-1950; dinner) Two blocks south of Bon Belta department store, you’ll find this bustling eatery, specialising in Miyazaki-gyū (beef). Cheese lovers won’t go past the butaniku-no-mottsarera-chiizu-age (mozzarella cheese rolled in pork, crumbed and shallow fried) for ¥600. The Japanese signage is white on black and there’s a picture menu.
Restaurant Bar De-meté-r (29-0017; 2nd fl, 3-8-18 Tachibana-dōri-nishi; dishes/pizzas from ¥470/750; dinner, closed Tue) Popular for its brick-oven pizza and import-beer selection, it has a good bilingual menu and no cover charge.
Izakaya Seoul (29-8883; 1st fl, Dai 1 Yoshino Bldg, 7-26 Chūōmachi; nabe from ¥1200; dinner) This Korean-Japanese restaurant is all about the food, has an English menu and does great nabe (hotpot) dishes.
Pari No Asaichi (0120-28-6137; 2nd fl, Nihonbashi Bldg, 1-6-8 Hiroshima; lunch sets from ¥1575; lunch & dinner) This sweet little restaurant has been serving French cuisine for over 20 years and has a half-decent winelist and an English menu. There’s a lovely big tree beside the brown-brick building.
Bon Belta department store (26-6126; 3-10-32 Tachibana-nishi) Has an 8th-floor restaurant arcade with lunch sets under ¥1000. The basement marketplace has a variety of takeaway treats with a wonderful onigiri (rice-ball snack) counter.
Drinking
Miyazaki also plays to the wee hours, especially in the summer. Hundreds of tiny bars draw a regular crowd. Most of the action is centred on the west side of Tachibana-dōri (locally known as ‘Nishitachi’) and the Ichibangai shopping arcade. In summer Bon Belta department store has a rooftop beer garden.
One Coin Bar (31-1152; 8-21 Chūō-dōri; closed Tue) All drinks are ¥500 (one coin!) at this smart eight-stool hole-in-the-wall with a regular clientele who return for the conversation. The well-mannered ‘master’ speaks English and appreciates the custom of travellers.
Suntory Shot Bar 4665 (25-4665; 1-12 Chūōdōri; closed Mon) Dark, quiet, art deco–styled, this is a nice spot for a quiet drink. The owner speaks some English.
Igokochiya Anbai (27-4117; 3-1-24 Tachibana-dōri-nishi; 6pm-2am, closed Mon) On Tachibana-dōri opposite Hotel Merieges, this thoroughly Japanese izakaya has over 350 varieties of shōchū and a selection of delicious appetisers.
Bar (71-0423; www.thebarmiyazaki.com; 3rd fl, Paul Smith Bldg, 3-7-15 Tachibana-dōri-higashi; 7pm-late) This hub of the expat community and its local friends draws a cheery mixed crowd who are proud of their city and keen to welcome visitors over a few cold beers. There’s even a full-size billiard table.
Entertainment
Jazz Spot Lifetime (27-8451; 2nd fl, 2-3-8 Hiroshima; admission Fri ¥500; 11.45am-2pm & 5pm-12.30am, closed Sun) Modern jazz is alive and well in Miyazaki with near-nightly jams at this upstairs bistro-bar. Drinks start at ¥600, with coffee, snacks and steaks on the menu.
Café Lanai (23-3412; 2-1-1 Shimizu; 6pm-midnight) This mellow establishment with an island-fever vibe plays surf videos above the full bar. Dishes (from ¥700) also have a tropical twist.
Planet Café Sports (32-5064; 8-25 Kamino-machi; 7pm-2am) Come for the sports and local jidori (grilled chicken), a perfect complement to a cold beer.
Shopping
Miyazaki Prefectural Products Promotion Exhibition Hall (22-7389; 1-6 Miyata-chō; 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6.30pm Sat & Sun) Sells distinctively coloured handwoven silk tetsumugi textiles, clay haniwa and Takachiho kagura masks (Click here).
Getting There & Away
AIR
Miyazaki is connected by air with Tokyo (¥36,700, 1½ hours), Osaka (¥23,500, 1½ hours), Okinawa (¥25,600, 1½ hours) and Fukuoka (¥19,700, 50 minutes).
BOAT
Ferry services