Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [574]
BUS
Most long-distance buses originate at the Miyakō City bus terminal (52-2200) south of the river, near JR Minami-Miyazaki Station. Routes include Kagoshima (¥2700, 2¾ hours), Kumamoto (¥4500, 3¼ hours), Nagasaki (¥6500, 5½ hours) and Fukuoka (¥6000, four hours).
TRAIN
The JR Nippō line runs down to Kagoshima (tokkyū, ¥3790, two hours) and up to Beppu (tokkyū, ¥6070, three hours). The charming JR Nichinan line runs slowly along the coast south to Aoshima (¥360, 30 minutes) and Obi (¥910, 65 minutes).
Getting Around
Miyazaki’s airport is connected to the city centre by bus (¥400, 30 minutes) or train (¥340, 10 minutes) from JR Miyazaki Station. Most city bus services use the Miyazaki Ekimae Bus Centre (53-1000) opposite the station and many run along Tachibana-dōri.
Car rental is, again, an excellent idea in this coastal area, especially if you plan to explore Aoshima and the Nichinan coast. Eki Rent-a-Car (24-7206; www.ekiren.co.jp, in Japanese; West exit, Miyazaki-eki; 12hr from ¥4720; 8am-8pm) is easiest.
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AOSHIMA & KAEDA
0985
Aoshima is a tiny palm-covered island, fringed by unique washboard rock formations. It’s connected to the mainland by a thin causeway. The name Aoshima also applies to the small town. Beneath its touristy exterior, you’ll find a relaxed, alternative community here. This lovely area is the perfect spot to surrender to the summer heat, and a good alternative to staying in Miyazaki city.
The tourist information booth has local maps, though little English is spoken. It’s a short walk from the station on the road leading to the shrine
Sights & Activities
On the island, just east of Aoshima Station, photogenic Aoshima-jinja (; 65-1262) is reputedly good for matchmaking (see Festivals & Events, below). Nearby is a botanical garden (; 65-1042; admission ¥200) boasting 64 different species of fruit trees.
KAEDA GORGE
An 8km-long, well-maintained hiking path winds through Kaeda Gorge following the Kaeda-gawa, a refreshingly clear stream filled with boulders and excellent swimming holes. Lush foliage includes banana palms and mountain cedars. To get to the car park, turn off Rte 220 onto prefectural road 339.
Festivals & Events
Aoshima-jinja (above) is the scene of two exciting festivals. On the second Monday in January, loincloth-clad locals dive ceremoniously into the ocean. At the end of July there’s more splashing as mikoshi are carried through the shallows to the shrine.
Sleeping & Eating
Miyazaki Cocona Shirahama Drive-in Campsite (; 65-2020; tent hire ¥1570, campsites from ¥2940, cabins for up to 4 people ¥9970; ) Opposite Shirahama beach, this modern complex has plenty of room and some nice rustic cabins set back from the main area.
Log Cabin Rashinban (; 65-0999; dm ¥3500; ) If it’s time for a tree change, head to this fascinating owner-builder chalet on the banks of a soothing stream. The closest station is Sosanji. Although there are roadside signs nearing the property, you’ll need directions or a taxi from town if you don’t have a rental car, at least for the first trip. When you get there, little English is spoken – but this distinctive accommodation in a tranquil setting is great if you want to get away, and even better if you’re travelling with someone.
Hotel Grantia Aoshima Taiyokaku (; 65-1531; www.route-inn.co.jp/english; s/d from ¥5500/10,000; ) Located on the hillside midway between Aoshima and Kodomo-no-kuni Stations, this property offers excellent value, with the West Wing completed in November 2008. All rooms have LAN internet access and rental laptops are available for ¥1000.
Aoshima Palm Beach Hotel (; 65-1555; s from ¥6000) This sparkling Florida-styled beachfront hotel is reasonably priced. Tsuki-no-shizuku, the hotel restaurant, does great tempura and sashimi straight from the ocean. Set menus start at ¥1500, but for a real treat, ask for the head chef’s omakase course featuring a selection