Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [579]
Shibaseki onsen (Map; 67-4100; 4 Noda; admission ¥210; 7.20am-8pm, closed 2nd Wed of each month) is near the smaller pair of hells. You can rent a private kazoku-buro (family bath) for ¥1570 per hour.
Between JR Beppu Station and the Kamegawa onsen area, Shōnin-ga-hama sand bath (Map; 66-5737; admission ¥1000; 8.30am-6pm Apr-Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-Mar) has a great beach location and English is spoken.
Northwest of town, the hilly Myōban onsen area (Map) is more peaceful. There are numerous baths and Edo-era replicas of the thatched-roof huts in which bath salts were made. Nearby, Onsen Hoyōland (Map; 66-2221; 5-1 Myōban; admission ¥1050; 9am-8pm) has giant mud baths, open-air and mixed-gender bathing.
For a seaside onsen experience, head to Kitahama Termas Onsen (Map; 24-4126; admission ¥500; 10am-8pm). The outside rotemburo mixes it up, but you’ll need a bathing suit.
HIDDEN BATHS
Tsuru-no-yu, Hebi-no-yu & Nabeyama-no-yu
For purists, the Myōban area has some wonderful, secluded baths à la naturale. Locals built and maintain Tsuru-no-yu (the easiest to reach), a lovely free rotemburo on the edge of Ogi-yama. In July and August, a natural stream emerges to form the milky blue bath. Take a bus to Konya Jigoku-mae bus stop (25 minutes northwest from JR Beppu Station). Walk up the small road that hugs the right side of the graveyard until the road ends. The bath is through the bushes to your left. Higher in the mountain greenery is another free rotemburo, Hebi-no-yu (Snake Bath), so named for its shape and not its occupants! Continue further (about 1km) to reach Nabeyama-no-yu, the last of the wild onsen. Beppu Station information has hand-drawn maps.
Mugen-no-sato
These private rotemburo are ideal for a romantic, secluded dip. Ask for a kazoku-buro (private bath; Map; 22-2826; 6 Hotta; admission ¥600; 9am-9pm). Take bus 33, 34, 36 or 37 to Horita then walk west for 10 minutes.
Ichinoide Kaikan
The owner of Ichinoide Kaikan (Map; 21-4728; 14-2 Uehara-machi) loves onsen so much that he built three pool-sized rotemburo in his backyard. There are fabulous views over Beppu to the sea. The general deal is that you order a delicious teishoku (¥1200), prepared while you bathe. Ask for directions at either Foreign Tourist Information Office as it’s quite a hike.
OTHER SIGHTS
Given all that bathing, Hihōkan Sex Museum (Map; 66-8790; 338-3 Shibuyu, Kannawa; admission ¥1000; 9am-6pm) fits right in. Among the Kannawa hells, it hosts a bizarre collection of sex-related items ranging from erotic ukiyo-e (wood-block prints) to zany porno and kinky toys. There are plenty of souvenirs with which to disturb the customs officials on the way home.
Near Takegawara Onsen, the Hirano Library (Map; 23-4748; 11-7 Motomachi; admission free; Mon-Sun) is a private institution with historical exhibits and photographs of the Beppu area.
The hands-on Beppu Traditional Bamboo Crafts Centre (Map; 23-1072; 8-3 Higashi-sōen) displays works from the Edo period, as well as examples of what can be made with this versatile material. From Beppu Station, take Kamenoi bus 25 to Dentō Sangyō-mae, in front of the centre.
Festivals & Events
Onsen festival During the first weekend in April.
Tanabata Matsuri In adjacent Ōita city, held over three days from the first Friday in August.
Sleeping
Beppu Guest House (Map; 76-7811; www.beppu-g-h.net; 1-12 Ekimae-chō; dm/s ¥1500/2500; ) There’s a welcoming atmosphere in Beppu’s cheapest lodging with good common areas to hang out with fellow travellers. English-speaking staff can steer you to Beppu’s bubbliest spots.
Spa Hostel Khaosan Beppu (Map; 23-3939; www.khaosan-beppu.com; 3-3-10 Kitahama; dm/s ¥2500/3500; ) Beppu’s newest backpackers is excellent value with modern clean rooms, free internet and no curfew.
Kokage International Minshuku (Map; 23-1753; http://ww6.tiki.ne.jp/~kokage/index.html;