Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [580]
Yamada Bessou (Map; 21-2424; www.yamadabessou.jp; 3-2-18 Kitahama; r per person from ¥5400; ) You could be stepping back in time at this gorgeous family-run 1930s inn with wonderful well-preserved rooms and fabulous art-deco features and furnishings. It’s small and private and has an equally lovely rotemburo.
Hotel Seawave Beppu (Map; 27-1311; www.coara.or.jp/seawave, in Japanese; 12-8 Ekimae-chō; s/tw/ste from ¥5800/8400/17,800; ) Opposite the station, the Seawave has smart, modern rooms, English-speaking staff and a breakfast buffet (¥600).
Hotel Aile (Map; 21-7272; 2-14-35 Kitahama; s/d/tw ¥6240/9540/10,590; ) The fantastic rooftop rotemburo and attractive, well-appointed rooms, some with great views, make this an excellent choice, just five minutes’ walk from the station. LAN cable internet access is available.
Nogami Honkan Ryokan (Map; 22-1334; www008.upp.so-net.ne.jp/yuke-c/english.html; 1-12-1 Kitahama; r per person with/without breakfast ¥6400/5500; ) Located near Takegawara onsen, most rooms have private bathrooms. Five small baths can be reserved for private use and owner Ken is a knowledgeable and gracious host.
Hotel Arthur (Map; 25-2611; 1-2-5 Kitahama; s/d from ¥6700/10,000; ) Less than five minutes’ walk from Beppu Station, Arthur is clean and well appointed. Some rooms have LAN cable internet connectivity.
Suginoi Hotel (Map; 24-1141; www.suginoi-hotel.com/english; 1 Kankaiji; r per person with 2 meals from ¥15,900; ) The highest standard of accommodation and an incredible tiered rooftop rotemburo define this wonderful hotel. The Ceada floor is worth the splurge if you can afford the luxury.
Eating
Beppu is renowned for freshwater fish, fugu and wild mountain vegetables, commonly used in dango-jiru, a miso soup with dumplings.
Eki Ichiba (Station Market; Map; 9am-5pm) You don’t need much Japanese to enjoy this bustling market under the tracks out the back of Beppu Station. It’s great fun to wander from stall to stall, savouring the yobuko-ika (squid tempura) or futomaki sushi (rice and seaweed roll). There’s an abundance of fresh produce and ready meals perfect for a picnic on the beach at Kitahama-kōen.
Tomonaga Panya (Map; 23-0969; Chio-machi 2-29; breakfast & lunch Mon-Sat) Tomonaga’s oven-fresh breads and pastries are worth waking up early for, and they go fast! The walls are filled with photos going back to 1917.
Gyōza Kogetsu (Map; 21-8062; 3-7 Ekimae-honmachi; 2pm-9.30pm, closed Tue) Only two things are on the menu in this tiny eatery; gyōza and beer. Both are ¥630 and the perfect compliment to a late afternoon soak on a warm day. Ask for directions at the Beppu International Plaza.
Dekadon (Map; 21-8062; 3-7 Ekimae-honmachi; dishes from ¥400; lunch & dinner) Just down from the station on the left, this tasty obentō kitchen has tasty, cheap takeaway boxed meals displayed fresh in the glass counter.
Toyotsune (Map; 22-2083; 3-7 Ekimae-honmachi; dishes from ¥650; lunch & dinner, closed Thu) This excellent, friendly eatery opposite Beppu Station has an English menu. The ebi-tendon (tempura prawns on rice) is as huge as the sashimi teishoku (from ¥1080) is mouthwatering.
Ureshi-ya (Map; 22-0767; 7-12 Ekimae-honmachi; dishes from ¥750; dinner, closed Mon) You’ll get your money’s worth at this friendly and busy shokudō (budget all-round eatery) with donburi (dishes served over rice), sashimi, oden (hotpot) and noodle dishes. Food models are displayed in the window.
Fugu Matsu (Map; 21-1717; 3-6-14 Kitahama; fugu from ¥4000; lunch & dinner) This is the place to try fugu in style, if you’re game (diehards love it). There’s an English menu.
Drinking
Jin Robata & Beer Pub (Map; 21-1768; 1-15-7 Kitahama) A flashing neon fish sign directs you to this welcoming, international pub. There’s plenty of great food to go with your booze. Pick from the rows of fresh fish on display, then watch it being grilled behind the counter.