Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [582]
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YUFUIN
0977 / pop 36,407
About 25km inland from Beppu, delightful Yufuin sits in view of the twin peaks of Yufu-dake. Yufuin is noted for its high-quality handicrafts and has some interesting temples and shrines. Although tourism development has increased, legislation prevents further expansion, protecting the town’s character. Even so, Yufuin is best avoided on holidays and weekends. If staying overnight arrive before dusk, when the day-trippers leave and wealthier Japanese retreat to the sanctuary of their ryokan.
The tourist Information office (84-2446; 9am-7pm) inside the train station has some information in English, including a detailed walking map showing galleries, museums and onsen. There’s a postal ATM next to the station, which also houses a small art gallery.
As in Beppu, making a pilgrimage from one onsen to another is a popular activity. Shitan-yu (; admission ¥200; 10am-9pm) is a thatched bathhouse on the northern shore of Kirin-ko, a hot spring–fed lake.
The double-peaked Yufu-dake (1584m) volcano overlooks Yufuin and takes about 90 minutes to climb. Some buses from Yufuin stop at the base of Yufu-dake, Yufu-tozanguchi (; ¥360, 16 minutes).
Sleeping & Eating
Yufuin has plenty of expensive, upscale ryokan, where most patrons return to eat. A handful of eateries by the station remain open.
Yufuin Country Road Youth Hostel (; 84-3734 www4.ocn.ne.jp/~yufuinyh/, in Japanese; dm member/nonmember ¥2835/3435; ) On a forested hillside overlooking the town, this character-filled hostel with its own onsen has a beautiful outlook. The experience is completed by the personality of its English-speaking owners. It’s possible they may pick you up from the station if you aren’t in time for one of the infrequent buses (¥200). Two meals are available for an extra ¥1680.
Pension Yufuin (; 85-3311; r with breakfast from ¥6500; ) This riverside guest house à la Anne of Green Gables, is verging on the kitsch, but it’s homey and in a lovely spot. The kind owner speaks a little English.
Makiba-no-ie (; 84-2138; r per person with 2 meals ¥8000-13,500; ) Atmosphere aplenty in this series of thatched-roof huts around a large rotemburo. The antique-filled garden restaurant does chicken jidori and wild-boar teishoku meals from ¥1500. Visitors can use the rotemburo for ¥525.
Hanayoshi (; 84-5888; 11am-4pm; ) You’ll find delicious bowls of soba and udon from ¥550 here, opposite the bike shop down the first right from the station. There’s a picture menu.
Aji-ichi Sugitaya (; 84-5644; lunch & dinner, closed Tue) Walk straight out of the station for 400m and you’ll see the photo menu and the hanging lantern out the front. Try the generous speciality, toriten (chicken tempura) and dangojiru (miso soup with dumplings) teishoku for ¥1200. All of the set meals are great value.
Getting There & Away
Local trains on the JR Kyūdai line connect Beppu with Yufuin (¥1080, 1¼ hours) via Ōita. For train buffs, there’s a magical ‘Yufuin no Mori’ express train a few times daily (¥4400, 2¼ hours).
Buses depart from JR Beppu Station for Yufuin throughout the day (¥900). Continuing beyond Yufuin is not so simple. Buses go to Aso and Kumamoto but not year-round. There are also express buses (Kyūshū Sanko) to Fukuoka (¥3100).
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YUFUIN TO ASO-SAN
The picturesque Yamanami Hwy extends 63km from near Yufuin towards Aso-san. It’s a wonderful drive if you have the opportunity. You’ll cross a high plateau and pass numerous mountain peaks, including Kujū-san (1787m), the highest point in Kyūshū.
Just off the highway, the Kokonoe ‘Yume’ Ōtsuribashi (’’; 0973-73-3800; admission ¥500; 9am-4pm) suspension bridge completed in 2006 is the largest of its kind in Japan. Hovering 173m above the Naruko-gawa (777m above sea level), it’s a shaky 390m walk from one side of the