Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [583]
Taketa
South of Yufuin, near the sleepy town of Taketa, the Oka-jō ruins have a ridgetop position affording lovely vistas. The ruins are over 2km from JR Bungo-Taketa Station. Taketa has some interesting reminders of the Christian period, as well as atmospheric temples and well-preserved traditional houses. Taketa Onsen Hanamizuki (; 0974-64-1126; admission ¥500; 1pm-9pm) is a short walk from the station.
From Aso-san, it takes just under an hour by train on the JR Hōhi line to Bungo-Taketa (futsū; ¥820); from there it’s just over an hour by train to Ōita (¥1250) – just a little longer by bus.
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Okinawa & the Southwest Islands
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KAGOSHIMA-KEN
ŌSUMI-SHOTŌ
TOKARA-RETTŌ
AMAMI-SHOTŌ
OKINAWA-KEN
OKINAWA-HONTŌ
ISLANDS NEAR OKINAWA-HONTŌ
MIYAKO-SHOTŌ
YAEYAMA-SHOTŌ
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Japan’s Southwest Islands, or Nansei-shotō, are the other Japan: a chain of semitropical islands that feels more like Hawaii or Southeast Asia than mainland Japan. Stretching from Kyūshū in the north to within sight of Taiwan in the south, these coral-fringed islands are sure to be a revelation to those who make the journey.
First and foremost, the islands are a nature lover’s paradise: starting with the islands of Kagoshima-ken in the north, you’ll find lush primeval forests hidden among the craggy peaks of Yakushima. In the same prefecture, there’s the starfishlike island of Amami-Ōshima, with lots of fine beaches in its convoluted coastline. Also in the Amami-shotō, tiny Yoron-tō is basically all beach, with an airport on top for easy access.
Heading south, the first stop is Okinawa-hontō, the bustling main island of Japan’s southernmost prefecture, Okinawa-ken. While the main island is great, the offshore islands are even better, including the spectacular Kerama-shotō, a group of tiny gems with white-sand beaches and crystal-clear waters. Next along is Miyako-jima, which also boasts killer beaches and a laid-back scene. And, finally, there is brilliant Yaeyama-shotō, with Japan’s best coral reefs, subtropical jungles and extensive mangrove swamps, not to mention manta rays, hammerhead sharks and the mysterious sunken ruins of the ‘Atlantis of the Pacific’.
Of course, spectacular nature is only the half of it: the southern islands also boast a fascinating and peculiarly ‘un-Japanese’ culture. Indeed, Okinawa was actually a separate country and culture for most of its history and the Ryūkyū cultural heart still beats in Japan’s Southwest Islands.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Hike into the mountainous heart of Yakushima to commune with ancient yaku-sugi trees
Dive with playful mantas off Ishigaki-jima
Explore the mangrove swamps, jungles and coral reefs of Japan’s last frontier, Iriomote-jima
Take a ferry to a simpler time on the ‘living museum’ island of Taketomi-jima
Soak up the sun on one of the white-sand beaches of the Kerama-shotō
Seek out the traces of Ryūkyū culture in the backstreets and markets of Naha
Try to keep your cool amid a school of hammerhead sharks off Yonaguni-jima, then check out the ‘Atlantis of the Pacific’
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History
For centuries, Okinawa and the Southwest Islands were ruled by aji (local chieftains), who battled for control of small fiefs, and struggled among themselves for power and fame. In 1429, however, the islands were united by Sho Hashi of the Chūzan kingdom, which led to the establishment of the Ryūkyū dynasty. During this period Sho Hashi increased contact with China, which contributed to the flourishing of Okinawan music, dance, literature and ceramics. In this ‘Golden Era’ weapons were prohibited, and the islands were rewarded with peace and tranquillity.
With no weapons and little means of defence, the Ryūkyū kingdom was not prepared for war when the Shimazu clan of Satsuma (modern-day Kagoshima) invaded in 1609. The Shimazu conquered the Ryūky