Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [584]
With the restoration of the Meiji emperor and the abolition of the Japanese feudal system, the Ryūkyūs were annexed to Japan as Okinawa Prefecture in 1879. However, life hardly changed for the islanders as they were treated as foreign subjects by the Japanese government, just as they had been by the Shimazu. Furthermore, the Meiji government stamped out local culture by outlawing the teaching of Ryūkyū history in schools, and establishing Japanese as the official language.
In the closing days of WWII, the Japanese military made a decision to use the islands of Okinawa as a shield against the allies, hoping to slow their relentless advance across the Pacific. This decision to sacrifice Okinawa to protect the mainland cost the islanders dearly: by the time the Battle of Okinawa was over, 12,500 US soldiers and an estimated quarter of a million Japanese had died.
Following the war, Okinawa was again sacrificed by Tokyo: while the occupation of the Japanese mainland ended in 1952, Okinawa remained under US control until it was officially returned to Japan in 1972. The return, however, was contingent upon Japan agreeing to allow the Americans to maintain bases on the islands and some 30,000 American military personnel remain stationed in several bases on Okinawa-hontō. For more information on the continuing occupation of Okinawa, Click here.
Climate
The Southwest Islands have a subtropical climate and are much warmer than mainland Japan, particularly as you head further south into Okinawa-ken. With the exception of the peaks of Yakushima, which may even be snowcapped between December and February, the islands escape anything resembling a real winter. You can comfortably travel the Southwest Islands any time of year, but swimming might be uncomfortable between late October and early May, unless you’re the hardy sort.
The average daily temperature on Okinawa-hontō in December is 20°C, while in July it is 30°C. The islands of Kagoshima-ken average a few degrees cooler than this, while those of Yaeyama-shotō and Miyako-shotō average a few degrees warmer. The islands are most crowded during June, July and August and during the Golden Week holiday in early May. Outside of these times, the islands are often blissfully quiet.
The main thing to keep in mind when planning a trip to the Southwest Islands is the possibility of typhoons, which can strike anytime between June and October. If you choose to visit during these months, build some flexibility into your schedule, as typhoons often cause cancellations or delays in flight and ferry departures. Be prepared to spend a few days hunkered down on an island waiting for a storm to pass. Ideally, purchase tickets that allow changes without incurring a fee. The Japan Meteorological Agency’s website (www.jma.go.jp/en/typh) has the latest details on typhoons approaching Japan.
Language
Although the Ryūkyū islands used to have their own distinctive language, this has by and large disappeared. Standard Japanese is spoken by almost every resident of the islands. That said, travellers who speak some standard Japanese might find the local dialects and accent a little hard to catch.
Getting There & Away
The Southwest Islands are easily accessible from mainland Japan.
There are flights between major cities in mainland Japan and Amami-Ōshima, Okinawa-hontō (Naha), Miyako-jima and Ishigaki-jima (Map). Kagoshima, in Kyūshū, has flights to/from all these islands and many of the smaller islands as well. Other outer islands such as Yonaguni-jima, Kume-jima and Zamami-jima can be reached by air with a change of flight in Naha (or, Ishigaki, in some cases).
There are ferries between Tokyo, Osaka/Kōbe and Kagoshima to the islands of Amami-shotō and Okinawa-hontō, as well as plentiful