Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [588]
On the west coast is Ōko-no-taki, which is Yakushima’s highest waterfall at 88m. It’s a five-minute walk from Ōko-no-taki bus stop, which is the last stop on some of the buses running south and west from Miyano-ura and Anbō (note that only two buses a day run all the way out here).
SLEEPING
The most convenient place to be based is Miyanoura, which has two hotels and lots of minshuku (Japanese guest houses), as well as some riverside cabins. You’ll find additional lodgings in each of the island’s villages and several barebones yama-goya in the mountains.
In July and August and the spring Golden Week holiday, it’s best to try to reserve ahead, since places fill up early. And if you’re staying outside Miyanoura, you’ll want to phone ahead anyway in the hope that the lodge owner will meet you at the ferry pier.
Miyanoura
Ocean View Campground (Yakushima Youth Campground; 47-3751; www.yakushima-yh.net; per person ¥840) This basic camping ground is pretty much just a field for tents and a couple of showers and bathrooms, with a bit of rocky beach down the hill. It’s just west of the Eneos petrol station. There are a few other camping grounds on the island, including one in Anbō and another in Yahazu.
Miyanoura Portside Youth Hostel (49-1316; www.yakushima-yh.net; dm HI member/nonmember ¥3200/3800; ) About 10 minutes’ walk from the pier in Miyanoura is this simple and clean youth hostel. The place doesn’t offer meals, but there are several good restaurants close by. To get there from the pier, walk into the village, then follow the first main shoreline road on the left.
Lodge Yaedake-sansō (42-1551; r per person with meals ¥7800; ) This secluded accommodation features Japanese-style rooms in rustic riverside cabins connected by wooden walkways. There’s a private bath where you can soak up the beauty of your surroundings and children will enjoy splashing in the river. The lodge is located inland upriver on the Miyanoura-gawa; if you make a booking, staff will pick you up in Miyanoura. There are no cooking facilities but meals are served. You’ll probably need a vehicle if you’re staying here.
Seaside Hotel (42-0175; www.ssh-yakushima.co.jp, in Japanese; r with 2 meals from ¥12,600; ) Overlooking the ferry port in Miyanoura, this popular resort hotel is extremely convenient and quite appealing. The mostly Western-style rooms are spacious and the seaside rooms have great ocean views. There’s a very nice pool and meals are available. It’s a five-minute walk from the Miyanoura ferry pier (look for the access road on your right as you walk towards town).
Onoaida
Yakushima Youth Hostel (47-3751; www.yakushima-yh.net; dm with/without meals ¥4620/2940; ) This well-run youth hostel is about 3km west of Onoaida. Accommodation is in Western-style dorms and the cypress wood tub in the new wing is great. Get off any southbound buses from Miyanoura at the Hirauchi-iriguchi bus stop and take the road towards the sea for about 200m.
Yakushima Iwasaki Hotel (47-3888; http://yakushima.iwasakihotels.com, in Japanese; d from ¥20,000; ) The island’s most luxurious hotel commands an impressive view from its hilltop location above Onoaida. Spacious Western-style rooms have either ocean or mountain views. The hotel has its own onsen bath and meals are available in two restaurants. Southbound buses from Miyanoura stop right in front of the hotel.
Nakata
Sōyōtei (45-2819; http://soyote.ftw.jp/u44579.html, in Japanese; r per person with meals ¥12,600; ) On the northwest of the island near Inaka-hama, this impressive guest house has a collection of semidetached units that boast private verandahs and ocean views. There is an outdoor bath overlooking the sea, but it’s not always open. It’s very close to the Inaka-hama bus stop.
EATING
There are a few restaurants in each of the island’s villages, with the best selection in Miyanoura. If you’re staying anywhere but Miyanoura, you should ask for