Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [589]
Resutoran Yakushima (42-0091; 9.30am-4.30pm) On the 2nd floor of the Yakushima Kankō Sentaa (look for the green two-storey building on the main road, near the road to the pier), this simple restaurant serves a ¥500 morning set breakfast with eggs, toast and coffee and a tasty tobi uo sashimi teishoku (flying fish sashimi set meal, ¥900) for lunch. You can also access the internet on two Japanese laptops here.
Ten Ten (42-0689; 5.30pm-10pm, closed irregularly) On the main road in the middle of Miyanoura, this friendly little izakaya (pub-eatery) serves a mouth-watering yakizakana teishoku (grilled fish set meal, ¥1000). It’s a little hard to spot; you might have to ask a local to point it out.
Oshokuji-dokoro Shiosai (42-2721; 11.30am-2pm & 5.30-10pm, closed Thu) Also on the main road in the middle of Miyanoura, this fine restaurant offers counter, table and tatami (woven floor matting) seating and a full range of Japanese standard dishes and great local seafood. There is no English menu, so if you’re at a loss, try the sashimi teishoku (sashimi full set, ¥1700) or the wonderful ebi-furai teishoku (fried shrimp full set, ¥1400). Look for the blue and whitish building and the automatic glass doors.
Lastly, if you need to stock up on supplies for camping or hiking, you’ll find Yakuden supermarket on the main street in Miyanoura, just north of the entrance to the pier area.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
JAC has flights between Kagoshima and Yakushima (¥12,750, 35 minutes, five daily). Yakushima’s airport is on the northeastern coast between Miyanoura and Anbō. Hourly buses stop at the airport, though you can usually phone your accommodation for a pick-up or take a taxi.
Boat
Three ferry services operate between Kagoshima (Kyūshū) and Yakushima, some of which stop at Tanegashima en route. Kagoshima Shōsen/Toppy (099-226-0128) and Cosmo Line/Rocket (099-223-1011) each run at least three hydrofoils a day between Kagoshima and Miyanoura (¥5000, one hour 50 minutes for direct sailings, two hours 50 minutes with a stop in Tanegashima). Kagoshima Shōsen/Toppy also has hydrofoil sailings between Kagoshima and Anbō Port on Yakushima.
Keep in mind that the hydrofoils stop running at the slightest hint of inclement weather. During the summer and Golden Week high seasons, you should reserve in advance by telephone or in person at the ferry offices the day before your intended departure from Kagoshima. In other seasons, you can usually just turn up and board the next sailing.
Orita Kisen (099-226-0731) runs the normal Ferry Yakushima 2 between Kagoshima and Miyanoura (one way/return ¥5200/8500, four hours, once daily). The ferry departs from Kagoshima at 8.30am, and leaves Miyanoura at 1.30pm. Reservations aren’t usually necessary for this ferry.
GETTING AROUND
Local buses travel the coastal road part way around Yakushima roughly every hour or two, though only a few head up into the interior. Buses are expensive and you’ll save a lot of money by purchasing a Furii Jōsha Kippu, which is good for unlimited travel on island buses. One-/two-day passes cost ¥2000/3000 and are available at the Toppy Ferry Office in Miyanoura.
Hitching is also possible, but the best way to get around the island is to rent a car. Toyota Rent-a-Car (43-5180; up to 12hr from ¥5775; 8am-8pm;) is located near the terminal in Miyanoura.
Tanegashima
0997 / pop 36,000
A long narrow island about 20km northeast of Yakushima, Tanegashima is a laid-back destination popular with Japanese surfers and beach lovers. Home to Japan’s Space Centre, Tanegashima also has the dubious distinction of being the spot where firearms were first introduced to Japan by shipwrecked Portuguese in 1543. Good ferry connections make this island easy to pair with a trip to Yakushima. Unfortunately, the relative lack of buses makes it difficult to enjoy this island without a rental car or scooter,