Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [591]
Iō-jima
09913 / pop 115
Iō-jima is a tiny bamboo-covered island with a smouldering volcano and two brilliant seaside onsen. Seldom visited by foreign travellers, this island makes a good overnight trip for those who like to step off the beaten track.
The port and the only village are at the southwest end of the island. A small souvenir shop at the pier usually stocks a Japanese pamphlet about the island, with a useful map of the island.
The eastern end of the island is home to Iō-dake (; 704m), an active volcano that frequently emits clouds of sulphurous yellow smoke. Run-off from the volcano is responsible for the rust colour of the island’s harbour. Note that climbing of the volcano is strictly forbidden.
There are two free onsen on the island. On the north coast, about a 4km walk from the port, is Sakamoto Onsen (), a rectangular pool built into the sea. The flow of hot water here is around 50°C; test the water with your hand before entering, and, if necessary, enter one of the adjoining pools that contain mostly seawater. The signs to this onsen are irregular; just try to work north and a little east over the waist of the island.
Higashi Onsen (), on the south coast, about a 3km walk east of the port and right below Iō-dake, is a much more appealing choice (and much easier to find). There are three rock-lined pools of varying temperatures looking out over the Pacific. The view is dominated by an offshore rock spire that looks like one of the fellows from Easter Island decided to relocate to Japan.
Tucked below the cliffs about 250m to the west of the pier, the Iō-jima camping area is free and open year-round, and you can use the showers at the swimming pool next door for ¥300. If you’re looking for a roof over your head, Minshuku Gajmaru (; 2-2105; r per person with 2 meals from ¥6000) is a friendly, simple minshuku, roughly in the middle of the little village, a five-minute walk from the pier (ask anyone for directions). Be sure to have a Japanese speaker call in advance to reserve.
Mishima Sonei Ferry (099-222-3141) operates the ferry Mishima three times a week between Kagoshima and Iō-jima, generally leaving Kagoshima at 9.30am and arriving at Iō-jima four hours later (¥3500).
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TOKARA-RETTŌ
pop 700
The Tokara-rettō is a group of seven inhabited and five uninhabited volcanic islands strung out between Yakushima and Amami-Ōshima. The total population of the island chain is only 550 and even for Japanese, these islands seem like the end of the world. The islands aren’t really beach destinations, but they do offer hiking, fishing and plentiful onsen. There are minshuku on the inhabited islands and camping is also possible. Pictures of the islands and minshuku information can be found on the Tokara website (www.tokara.jp, in Japanese).
Nakagawa Unyu (Ferry Toshima; 099-219-1191) has a ferry that leaves Kagoshima on Mondays and Fridays, and stops at each inhabited island down the chain to Takara-jima (the Monday departure continues on to Naze on Amami-Ōshima). The return trip leaves Takara-jima on Wednesdays and Sundays. Check departure dates and times before turning up as they can vary and are affected by typhoons. Second-class travel between Kagoshima and Takarajima costs ¥7800 and takes about 13 hours.
Travelling from north to south, the ferry visits Kuchino-shima (), Nakano-shima (), Taira-jima (), Suwanose-jima (), Akuseki-jima (), Kodakara-jima () and Takara-jima (). A large pod of dolphins is regularly spotted between Akuseki-jima and Kodakara-jima – stay on deck for this leg. Even if you don’t see any dolphins, you will certainly see lots of flying fish.
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AMAMI-SHOTŌ
The southernmost island group in Kagoshima-ken is Amami-shotō. Amami-Ōshima, the largest and most popular island, lies at the northern end of the group. It serves as the main transport hub and boasts excellent beaches, as well as dense jungle. The other islands in the chain are dominated by sugarcane fields but also have some good beaches. Heading south,