Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [592]
Amami-Ōshima
0997 / pop 70,000
Some 350km southwest of Kagoshima, Amami-Ōshima is Japan’s third-largest offshore island after Okinawa-hontō and Sado-ga-shima. With a mild subtropical climate year-round, the island is home to some unusual flora and fauna, including tree ferns and mangrove forests. The coastline of the island is incredibly convoluted – a succession of bays, points and inlets, punctuated by the occasional white-sand beach – making the island an interesting alternative to islands further south. Ferry access from Tokyo, Osaka/Kōbe and Kagoshima sweetens the deal for backpackers.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
The main city and port, Naze (), is on the north coast. The island’s tiny airport is 55 minutes away by bus (¥1100, almost hourly, buses are timed to meet flights) on the northeast coast. The best beaches are at the northeast end of the island. There’s a small tourist information counter (63-2295; 8.30am-6.45pm) in the airport arrivals hall that can help with maps and bus schedules, but nothing at the ferry terminal. Amami Nangoku Travel Service (53-0085) in the centre of Naze, across from the Amami Sun Plaza Hotel, is a useful travel agency that can help with ferry and air bookings.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
The closest beach to Naze, Ōhama-Kaihin-kōen, is popular for swimming, snorkelling and sea kayaking in summer. It can get crowded and it’s not as nice as beaches further afield, but it’s convenient. Take an Ōhama-bound bus from Naze and get off at the Ōhama stop (¥400).
For a really stunning beach, head to Sakibaru Kaigan, which is about 4.5km down a point of land just north of Kise (about 20km northeast of Naze). Take a Sani-bound bus from Naze and get off at Kiseura (¥950), and then walk. If you’re driving, it’s marked in English off the main road (be prepared for narrow roads).
It’s easier to get to Tomori Kaigan, which also offers brilliant white sand and some great snorkelling with a channel leading outside the reef. It’s about 3km north of the airport. Take a Sani-bound bus from Naze and get off at Tomori (¥1210).
Amami-Ōshima is a great island to explore by touring bicycle or rental car. The coastal route out to Uken () on the west coast has some lovely stretches. Another option is to take Rte 58 south to Koniya (), from where you can continue southwest to the Honohoshi-kaigan (), a rocky beach with incredible coastal formations, or you can catch a ferry to Kakeroma-jima (), a small island with a few shallow beaches.
SLEEPING
Minshuku Tatsuya Ryokan (52-0260; r per person with/without meals ¥4500/3000; ) If you’re looking for a bargain in Naze, this foreigner-friendly ryokan has simple but acceptable rooms and a kindly, informative owner. It’s roughly in the centre of town, near the Hotel New Amami.
Minshuku Sango Beach (57-2580; per person with 2 meals from ¥6000) Overlooking a lovely sand beach in the village of Kuninao, this laid back minshuku has a vaguely Southeast Asian feeling. Guests sleep in three semidetached units and meals are taken overlooking the sea. Look for the sign that reads ‘yes we speak English’.
Amami Sun Plaza Hotel (53-5151; s from ¥6500; ) In the centre of Naze, this well-run business hotel has slightly larger than normal rooms and cramped but clean bathrooms. There is free internet and a restaurant.
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SNAKES IN THE GRASS
Any discussion of the Southwest Islands eventually gets around to ‘deadly’ habu snakes. Perhaps it’s a reflection of Japan’s severe shortage of real dangers, but you could easily get the impression that the poor habu, a species of pit viper, is the world’s most dangerous snake, and that there’s one waiting behind every tree, shrub, bush and barstool on the islands. They’re hardly so prolific – the most likely place to see one is at a mongoose-versus-habu fight put on for tourists, or floating in a jar of very expensive (and slightly poisonous) sake.
Nevertheless, they are venomous! It’s not a good idea