Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [598]
It’s worth noting that Okinawa-hontō has been somewhat overdeveloped for domestic tourism. If you seek Southeast Asian–style beaches and fewer big resorts, we suggest that you explore the cultural and historical islands of the main island for a few days and then head elsewhere in Okinawa-ken for your tropical beach holiday.
Naha
pop 320,000
Although it was completely flattened during WWII, the prefectural capital of Naha has been completely rebuilt and is now a thriving urban centre. The city sports a convenient elevated monorail and a rapidly expanding skyline of modern high-rise apartments, as well as the inevitable traffic jams.
The city plays host to an interesting mix of young Japanese holidaymakers, American GIs looking for off-base fun and a growing number of foreign tourists. The action centres on Kokusai-dōri (International Blvd), a colourful and energetic 2km main drag of hotels, restaurants, bars, clubs and just about every conceivable type of souvenir shop. And overlooking it all from a safe distance to the east is Shuri-jō, a wonderfully restored castle that was once the home of Ryūkyū royalty.
At first glance, Naha looks like the archetypal tourist trap, but a little poking around reveals a city with a lot of soul. The shopping arcades off Kokusai-dōri seem transplanted straight from Malaysia or Thailand, and the Tsuboya pottery area and surrounding neighbourhoods have oodles of aji (a Japanese word meaning flavour or character). Oh, and let’s not forget that Naha is the world capital of the cool short-sleeve shirt.
ORIENTATION
Naha is fairly easy to navigate, especially since the main sights and attractions are located in the city centre. The main drag is Kokusai-dōri, while the Tsuboya pottery area is to the southeast via a series of covered arcades. The Shuri district is located about 3km to the east of the city centre. For information on public transport, see Getting Around.
INFORMATION
Post offices are scattered around town, including the Miebashi Post Office, on the ground floor of the Palette Kumoji building, the Tomari-kō Post Office, in the Tomari port building, and the Kokusai-dōri Post Office, around the corner from Makishi station.
Gera Gera (863-5864; 2-4-14 Makishi; per hr ¥480; 24hr) A convenient net cafe on Kokusai-dōri. It’s just a little east of the Family Mart convenience store, on the 2nd floor.
Okinawa Tourist (862-1111; 1-2-3 Matsuo; 9.30am-6.30pm, closed Sun) On Kokusai-dōri, a competent travel agency with English speakers who can help with all manner of ferry and flight bookings.
Tourist information counter (857-6884; Arrivals Terminal, Naha airport; 9am-9pm) At this helpful prefectural counter, we suggest picking up a copy of the Naha City Guide Map before heading into town. If you plan to explore outside Naha, also grab a copy of the Okinawa Guide Map.
Tourist information office (868-4887; 8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun) The city office also has free maps. It’s just off Kokusai-dōri (turn at Starbucks).
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Central Naha
The city’s main artery, Kokusai-dōri (), is a riot of neon, noise, souvenir shops, bustling restaurants and Japanese young things out strutting their stuff. It’s a festival of tat and tackiness, but it’s a good time if you’re in the mood for it.
Many people prefer the atmosphere of the three shopping arcades that run south off Kokusai-dōri roughly opposite Mitsukoshi Department Store: Ichibahon-dōri (), Mutsumibashi-dōri () and Heiwa-dōri (). Prepare for some serious cognitive dissonance as you explore these places: you may think you somehow stepped through a secret passageway to the Chinatown district of Bangkok.
Our favourite stop in this area is the Daichi Makishi Kōsetsu Ichiba (2-10-1 Matsuo;10am-8pm), a covered food market just off Ichibahon-dōri, about 200m south of Kokusai-dōri. The colourful variety of fish and produce on offer here is amazing, and don’t miss the wonderful local restaurants upstairs. Keep in mind, however, that this is a working