Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [599]
Another highlight is the Tsuboya pottery area (). More than a dozen traditional kilns still operate in this neighbourhood, which has served as a centre of ceramic production since 1682, when Ryūkyū kilns were consolidated here by royal decree. Most shops sell all the popular Okinawan ceramics, including shiisā (lion-dog roof guardians) and containers for serving awamori, the local firewater. To get here from Kokusai-dōri, walk south through the Heiwa-dōri arcade for about 350m.
In Tsuboya, you will find the excellent Tsuboya Pottery Museum (862-3761; 1-9-32 Tsuboya; admission ¥315; 10am-6pm, closed Mon), which contains some fine examples of traditional Okinawan pottery. Here you can also inspect potters’ wheels and inspect arayachi (unglazed) and jōyachi (glazed) pieces.
After visiting the museum, we recommend strolling down the incredibly atmospheric Tsuboya-yachimun-dōri (), which is lined with pottery shops. The lanes off the main street here contain some classic crumbling old Okinawan houses.
At the eastern end of Kokusai-dōri, a left turn will take you to the reconstructed gates of Sōgen-ji. The original stone gates once led to the 16th-century temple of the Ryūkyū kings, though it was unfortunately destroyed in WWII.
About 15 minutes’ walk northwest of the Omuromachi monorail station, you will find the Okinawa Prefectural Museum (941-8200; Omuromachi 3-1-1; admission ¥400; 9am-5.30pm, closed Mon). Opened in 2007, this museum of Okinawa’s history, culture and natural history is easily one of the best museums in Japan. Displays are well laid out, easy to understand and attractively presented. The art museum section holds interesting special exhibits with an emphasis on local artists.
On the north side of Tomari port is the fascinating international cemetery, which has a small monument commemorating Commodore Perry’s 1852 landing in Naha. The US naval officer subsequently used Okinawa as a base while he forced the Tokugawa shōgunate to finally open Japanese ports to the West.
Finally, garden fans should take a stroll through Chinese-style Fukushū-en (Map; 869-5384; 2-29 Kume; admission free; 9am-6pm Thu-Tue). All materials were brought from Fuzhou, Naha’s sister city in China, including the pagoda that sits atop a small waterfall.
Shuri District
Shuri was the original capital of Okinawa, though the title was surrendered to Naha in 1879 just prior to the Meiji Restoration. Shuri’s temples, shrines, tombs and castle were all destroyed in WWII, but the castle and surrounding structures were rebuilt in 1992.
The reconstructed castle, Shuri-jō (; 886-2020; admission ¥800; 9am-5.30pm), sits atop a hilltop in the centre of Shuri, overlooking the urban sprawl of modern-day Naha. It was originally built in the 14th century and served as the administrative centre and royal residence of the Ryūkyū kingdom until the 19th century.
Enter through the Kankai-mon () and proceed up to the Hōshin-mon (), which forms the entryway to the inner sanctum of the castle, dominated by the impressive Seiden (). Visitors can enter the Seiden, which contains exhibits on the castle and the Okinawan royals. There is also a small collection of displays in the nearby Hokuden.
While you’re at the castle, be sure to visit the Irino-Azana (), a viewpoint about 200m west of the Seiden that affords great views over Naha and as far as Kerama-shotō.
To reach the complex, take the Yui-rail monorail to its eastern terminal, Shuri station. Exit to the west, go down the steps, walk straight, cross one big street, then a smaller one and go right on the opposite side, then walk about 350m and look for the signs on the left.
Around Naha
Around 4km east of the city centre is the Shikina-en (; 855-5936; admission ¥300; 9am-5pm closed Wed), a Chinese-style garden containing stone bridges, a viewing pavilion and a villa that belonged to the Ryūkyū royal family. Despite its flawless appearance, everything was painstakingly rebuilt after WWII. To reach the garden,