Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [600]
A three-minute walk from Akamine station (follow the English signs) is the Naha Folkcraft Museum (; 868-7866; 2F Tenbusu Naha, 3-2-10 Makishi, Naha; admission ¥300; 9am-6pm, closed year-end & new-year holidays), which houses a detailed collection of traditional Okinawan crafts. Staff members are on hand to demonstrate glass-blowing, weaving and pottery-making in the workshops. Enter by 5.30pm.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Dragon-boat races Held in early May, particularly in Itoman and Naha. These races – called hari – are thought to bring luck and prosperity to the island’s fishermen.
Ryūkyū-no-Saiten (; end of October, three days) Brings together more than a dozen festivals and special events celebrating Okinawan culture.
Naha Ōzunahiki () Takes place in Naha on Sunday around the national Sports Day Holiday in October, and features large teams that compete in the world’s biggest tug of war, using a gigantic 1m-thick rope weighing over 40 tonnes.
SLEEPING
Naha is the most convenient base for exploring Okinawa-hontō.
Kashiwaya (869-8833; www.88smile.com/kasiwaya; 2-12-22 Wakasa; dm ¥1500, r per person ¥3000; ) Conveniently located just off Kokusai-dōri, near the Daiichi Makishi Kōsetsu Market, this funky guest house has a variety of basic accommodation for backpackers. The place has a laid-back vibe and a cool bar-restaurant downstairs that’s worth a visit even if you aren’t staying.
Okinawa International Youth Hostel (857-0073; www.jyh.gr.jp/okinawa/english.htm; 51 Ōnoyama; dm HI member/nonmember ¥3360/3960; ) This excellent youth hostel is located in Ōnoyama-kōen, a five-minute walk from the Asahibashi station (cross to the far side of Meiji-bashi). If you’re walking from Asahibashi station, turn left at the torii (shrine gate).
Tōyoko Inn Naha Asahibashi-eki-mae (951-1045; www.toyoko-inn.com/e_hotel/00076/; 2-1-20 Kume; s/d from ¥5460/8190; ) Just a short walk north of Kokusai-dōri, the Tōyoko is a good-value business hotel with small but serviceable rooms and useful features like free internet and washing machines. It’s one of the better values in this price range.
Hotel Sun Palace (863-4181; www.palace-okinawa.com/sunpalace, in Japanese; 2-5-1 Kumoji; per person with breakfast from ¥6500; ) About 10 minutes’ walk from Kokusai-dōri, the Sun Palace is a step up from a standard business hotel. The fairly spacious rooms have interesting design touches and some have balconies.
Hotel Marine West Naha (863-0055; www.marine-west.jp, in Japanese; 2-5-1 Kumoji; s/tw from ¥5040/9450; ) A short walk west of Kokusai-dōri, this converted apartment building has comfortable rooms, a pleasant breakfast nook and free internet, as well as helpful staff. It’s popular with divers and there’s a gear storage and drying room on the ground floor.
EATING
Naha is the perfect spot to sample the full range of Okinawan cuisine. For descriptions of the Okinawan dishes mentioned in this section, see the boxed text.
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AMERICAN BASES IN OKINAWA
The US officially returned Okinawa to Japanese administration in 1972, but it negotiated a Status of Forces Agreement that guaranteed the Americans the right to use large tracts of Okinawan land for military bases, most of which are on Okinawa-hontō. At present, out of a total of 85 American bases on Japanese soil, 33 are located in Okinawa. These bases are home to approximately 24,000 American servicemen.
Although the bases provide a certain amount of economic support to the island economy, they are a continual sore spot for islanders, due to occasional crimes committed by American servicemen. Antibase feelings peaked in 1996, when three American servicemen abducted and raped a 12-year-old Okinawan girl. Similar incidents in recent years have perpetuated animosity towards the Americans.
Okinawans rightly believe that by playing host to the bulk of American forces stationed in Japan, they are once again being sacrificed by Tokyo. (The original sacrifice, of course, came when Tokyo used Okinawa as a buffer to slow the American