Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [601]
At the time of writing, various plans are in the works to move some of the bases away from the most populous areas of Okinawa-hontō to less crowded areas, or to offshore bases. In addition, there are plans to move about 6000 servicemen to a base in Guam, but US military officials have said that this might not occur until as late as 2015.
Tourists to Okinawa are surprised to find that the servicemen stationed in Okinawa keep a relatively low profile. Unless one ventures to the areas north of Naha, where most are stationed, it is possible to spend a few days in Okinawa without even noticing their presence. In fact, you could almost forget that the island is under occupation, until another American fighter jet goes screaming overhead.
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Daitō Soba (867-3889; 1-4-59 Makishi; 11am-9pm) This little noodle house is the perfect spot for sampling your first bowl of okinawa-soba (¥500, ask for daitō-soba). It’s one block north of Kokusai-dōri; look for the yellow banner and lantern. Last order 8.30pm.
Yakiniku Station Bambohe (861-4129; 1-3-47 Makishi; 11am-11pm) If you’ve got a big appetite, try this place for an all-you-can-eat yakiniku (Korean barbecue) feast, which will only set you back ¥1860 for men and ¥1700 for women. The restaurant is just off Kokusai-dōri, across from the tourist information office.
Minoya (869-4955; 9th fl, Palette Kumoji Shopping Mall; 11am-10pm) This restaurant has zero ambience, but it serves tasty versions of all the local favourites. There’s a picture menu with such standards as sōki-soba (¥650) and gōya-teishoku (set-course meal with bitter melon; ¥850). You’ll see the restaurant as you emerge from the elevators; look for the black-and-yellow sign.
Gen (861-0429; 2-6-23 Kumoji; 11.30am-2pm & 5pm-midnight) This atmospheric yakiniku place is one of our favourite places in Naha for a good meal. If you’re a carnivore and want some excellent grilled meat washed down with great awamori, this is the place. Look for the English sign at the bottom of the steps. If you can’t speak Japanese, ask your accommodation owner to call and order the yakiniku course (¥3500 per person) as it must be ordered in advance.
Swan (927-9135; Kumoji; 5pm-midnight, closed Sun) Literally a hole in the wall, this unusual little yakitori joint serves great grilled chicken and island pork (known as yanbaru shima buta). If you can’t read or speak Japanese, just order a makase course (set course: seven sticks ¥1000, 14 sticks ¥2000). Look for the picnic tables outside. There’s a bigger branch (Swan II) near the Naha bus terminal.
Yūnangi (867-3765; 3-3-3 Kumoji; noon-3pm & 5.30pm-10pm, closed Sun & national holidays) You’ll be lucky to get a seat here, but if you do, you’ll be treated to some of the best Okinawan food around, served in atmospheric traditional surroundings. Try the okinawa-soba set (¥1400). Look for the wooden sign with white letters in Japanese and the plants.
Uchina Chaya Buku Buku (861-2950; 1-28-3 Tsuboya; 10am-4.30pm, closed Wed) This incredibly atmospheric tea house near the east end of the Tsuboya pottery area is worth a special trip. It takes its name from the traditional frothy Okinawan tea served here: buku buku cha. It’s up a small lane just north of Tsuboya-yachimun-dōri.
Daichi Makishi Kōsetsu Ichiba (2-10-1 Matsuo; meals from ¥800; 10am-8pm) We highly recommend a meal at one of the eateries on the 2nd floor of this food market. It’s pointless to make a recommendation; have a look at what the locals are eating and grab a seat.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
Naha International Airport (OKA) has international air connections with Seoul, Taipei, Hong Kong and Shanghai. Connections with mainland Japan include Kagoshima (¥24,100, one hour 25 minutes), Hiroshima (¥29,400, two hours), Osaka (¥31,400, two hours 15 minutes), Nagoya (¥35,600, two hours 25 minutes), Tokyo (¥37,500, two hours 45 minutes) and Sapporo