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Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [607]

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270km southwest of Okinawa-hontō and 100km northeast of Yaeyama-shotō. This island group contains the main island of Miyako-jima, and the nearby islands of Ikema-jima, Irabu-jima, Shimoji-jima and Kurima-jima, as well as a scattering of tiny islets. Located just north of the Tropic of Cancer, Miyako-shotō is the quintessential beach destination and there is good diving and snorkelling in the waters offshore.

Unfortunately, Miyako-shotō is no longer served by ferries from the mainland or Okinawa-hontō, which means that the only way to get there is to fly. Of course, this might change by the time this book is published, so it doesn’t hurt to check the latest information online or at local tourist offices. Those who spring for the plane tickets will find themselves rewarded by some of the best beaches in the Southwest Islands and a friendly laid-back atmosphere.

Miyako-jima

0980 / pop 55,200

The main island in Miyaho-shotō, Miyako-jima is a mostly flat expanse of sugarcane fringed by excellent beaches, with long fingers of land pointing out into the sea. Lying just offshore are four smaller islands, two of which are connected to the main island by bridges (another bridge is under construction that will allow road access to all the nearby islands).

First and foremost, Miyako-jima is a beach island and you can happily spend your days here hopping from one great beach to the next, with a spot of snorkelling at each one if you’re so inclined. If you tire of that, a seaside drive to the various capes of the island is a great way to spend a few hours. And, finally, there are a few attractions in the main city of Hirara to keep you occupied on a rainy day.

INFORMATION

Hirara-Nishizato Post Office (Map; ; Ichiba-dōri; 9am-5pm, ATMs longer, closed Sat & Sun) The ATMs here accept foreign ATM cards.

Public library (Map;; cnr McCrum-dōri & Chūō-dōri) It’s possible to access the internet for free on the 2nd floor.

Tourist information desk (72-0899; 9.30am-5pm) In the arrivals hall of the airport, you can pick up a copy of the Miyako Island Guide Map. Japanese readers should also pick up a copy of the detailed Guide Map Miyako.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Just 4km north of town you will find the excellent little Sunayama Beach (Map), which lies at the bottom of a large sand dune (hence the name ‘Sand Mountain Beach’). A cool stone arch at one side of the beach provides a bit of shade.

On the southwest coast, beautiful Yonaha-Maehama (Map) is a 6km stretch of white sand that attracts a lot of families and young folks due to its shallow waters. It’s a lovely beach, but it can get crowded and the presence of the occasional jet-ski is a drawback. It’s just before the Kurima-Ōhashi Bridge, on the north side.

If you’ve had a look at the crowds at Yoneha-Maehama and decided you want something quieter, head across the Kurima-Ōhashi and drive to the northwest coast of Kurima-jima (), where you will find the brilliant (and usually uncrowded) Nagahama (Map).

On the southeast corner of Miyako-jima is Boraga Beach (Map), which is a popular spot for snorkelling and kayaking (with a hair-raisingly steep access road). Around the cape to the north, you’ll find Yoshino Beach and Aragusuku Beach (both Map), two relatively shallow beaches with a lot of offshore coral (much of it dead).

If you’ve got a car, we recommend a drive out to the end of Higashi Henna-saki (), a narrow finger of land that extends 2km into the Pacific Ocean. There are picnic tables, walking trails and a lighthouse at the point for you to explore.

Another good drive is across Ikema-Ōhashi () to Ikema-jima (; Map). The shallow turquoise water on either side of this 1.4km bridge is incredibly beautiful on a sunny day (just try to keep your eyes on the road). You’ll find several private pocket beaches around the coast of Ikema-jima.

If you can pry yourself away from the beaches for a moment, there are a few sights in Hirara, including the Miyako Traditional Arts & Crafts Centre (Map; 72-8022; admission free; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat), which displays traditional island crafts – be

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