Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [608]
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THE ‘COMMUNICATION DRINK’
The friendly people of Miyako-jima have earned a reputation for drinking, and the Izato entertainment area in the town of Hirara is said to have more bars per capita than any other town in Japan.
Miyako even has its unique local drinking custom, called otori. This group ritual involves making a speech, filling your own glass (usually with potent awamori, the local liquor) and then filling the glasses of all in the room. Everyone drinks up, the leader makes a short closing speech, picks the next victim and the routine starts all over again. Miyako’s otori is so notorious that even hard-livered Okinawans from neighbouring islands are said to fear the ritual.
If you happen to end up lured into an otori and want to sneak out before getting plastered, one local veteran boozer advises, ‘Never say goodbye. Just head for the toilet and don’t come back!’
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SLEEPING
Most of the accommodation is located in the town of Hirara, but you’ll also find places to stay closer to the beaches. There are free camping grounds at many beaches, including Yonaha-Maebama, Boraga and Aragusuku.
Hiraraya (Map; 75-3221; www.miyako-net.ne.jp/~hiraraya; dm night/week ¥2000/12,000, r per person night/week ¥3000/18,000; meals available; ) Located in central Hirara just one block north of Miyako-jinja (look for the light blue curtain that says guest house), this laid-back spot is run by a charming young woman who will do everything to make you feel at home. Accommodation is available in dorms and Japanese-style tatami rooms, and there are special rates available for longer-term stays. Meals also available.
Guesthouse Miyako-jima (Map; 76-2330; www2.miyako-ma.jp/yonaha/index.html; dm night/week ¥2500/11,200, r per person night/week ¥4000/21,000; ) This bright and cheery guest house has a scenic location near Yoneha-Maehama beach, and is perfectly set up for budget travellers. Accommodation is in cosy Western-style dorms and private rooms with shared facilities, and there are special rates available for long-term stays. Guests can also borrow bicycles and scooters.
Miyako Dai-ichi Hotel (Map; 73-5522; r per person from ¥6825; ) This centrally located business hotel has comfortable and fairly spacious rooms and a friendly staff, as well as a large parking lot and an on-site restaurant.
Raza Cosmica Tourist Home (Map; 75-2020; www.raza-cosmica.com; r per person with breakfast from ¥8000; ) This charming South Asian–themed inn sits above a lovely secluded beach on Ikema-jima. Romantic Western-style rooms offer peace and quiet in truly lovely surroundings, which makes this the perfect destination for holidaying couples or honeymooners. Bathrooms are shared and children below 12 years of age are not permitted. Look for the Shiva eyes on the door.
Island Terrace Neela (Map; 74-4678; www.neela.jp; r per person with breakfast from Y30,000; ) Overlooking the same private beach as the Raza (preceding), this intimate high-end resort looks like a whitewashed Mediterranean resort airlifted to Japan. The private villas would make the perfect honeymoon destination.
EATING
There are eateries scattered here and there across the island, but you’ll find the best selection in the town of Hirara.
Koja Shokudō Honten (Map; 72-2139; 10am-10pm) One block northwest of the intersection between Ichiba-dōri and Nishizato-dōri, this nondescript noodle house is something of a local legend. For more than 50 years, Koja has been serving up steaming bowls of sōki-soba (¥650). The owner speaks English. It’s across from a parking lot; look for the white tiles around the entryway.
Chūzan (; Map; 73-1959; 4pm-midnight) This popular izakaya is a great spot that offers a variety of locally caught seafood. You can’t go wrong with the sashimi-moriawase (sashimi assortment; ¥1000), which washes down perfectly with a tall glass of nama-biiru (draught beer; ¥450). There’s a limited picture