Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [610]
Yaeyama-shotō is arguably the top destination in the Southwest Islands. These islands offer Japan’s best snorkelling and diving, and some of Japan’s last intact subtropical jungles and mangrove swamps (both on Iriomote-jima). Perhaps the best feature of the Yaeyamas is their variety and the ease with which you can explore them: plentiful ferry services run between Ishigaki City and nearby islands like Iriomote-jima and Taketomi-jima, and you can easily explore three or four islands in one trip.
Ishigaki-jima
0980 / pop 48,420
Located 100km southwest of Miyako-jima, Ishigaki-jima is the most populated and developed island in Yaeyama-shotō. Ishigaki-jima has some excellent beaches around its coastline, and there are some brilliant diving and snorkelling spots offshore. The rugged geography of the island is also extremely attractive, both for long drives and day hikes, and there are times when you might think you’re in Hawaii instead of southern Japan. Oh, and let’s not forget the great food and lively nightlife to be found in Ishigaki City.
While Ishigaki-jima serves as the gateway to the Yaeyamas, you should avoid the temptation to move on as soon as you arrive in Ishigaki – the island itself is a very appealing destination.
ORIENTATION
Ishigaki City, Ishigaki-jima’s main population centre, occupies the southwestern corner of the island. The city is centred on its harbour, though you’ll find most of the action in the two shopping arcades, which run parallel to the main street. The city is easily walkable, and can be explored in an hour or two.
A series of roads branch out from Ishigaki City and head along the coastline and into the interior. There are several small population centres near the coast, though most of the interior of the island is comprised of rugged mountains and patches of farmland.
INFORMATION
Gera Gera (Map; 82-8025; per hr ¥400;24hr) Internet access is available here.
Information counter (88-5239; airport; 9am-5pm) Small but helpful.
Tourist information office (Map; 82-2809; 1st fl, Ishigaki-shi Shōkō Kaikan; 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Has a friendly English-speaking staff and simple English maps of the island. Japanese readers should pick up the Ishigaki Town Guide and the Yaeyama Nabi.
Yaeyama Post Office (Map; Sanbashi-dōri; lobby 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat, ATM 8.45am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, Sun & holidays) Has international ATMs.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Ishigaki City
Before you hit the beaches, you might want to spend a half-day exploring some of the sights around Ishigaki City. Located 100m southeast of the post office is the modest Ishigaki City Yaeyama Museum (Map; 82-4712; admission ¥200; 9am-5pm, closed Mon), which has exhibits on the culture and history of the island, and displays coffin palanquins, dugout canoes, island textiles and festival photographs. Enter by 4.30pm.
Although the Southwest Islands didn’t really have samurai, Miyara Dōnchi (Map; 82-2767; admission ¥200; 9am-5pm) is essentially a samurai-style house that dates from 1819, and is the only one left in the whole island chain. To reach the house, walk north along Sanbashi-dōri until you see signs (in English) pointing to the house.
Founded in 1614, the Zen temple of Tōrin-ji (Map), near the intersection of Shimin-kaikan-dōri and Rte 79, is home to the 18th-century statues of Deva kings, which serve as the guardian deities of the islands. Adjacent to the temple is Gongen-dō (Map), a small shrine originally built in 1614, which was rebuilt after being destroyed by a tsunami in 1771.
Beaches
Some of the best beaches on the island are found on the west coast. North of Ishigaki City along Rte 79 is Yonehara Beach (Map), a nice sand beach with a good bit of reef offshore. You can rent snorkel gear (¥1000) at any of the shops along the main road.
Just west of Yonehara is the equally famous Kabira-wan