Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [611]
At the north end of the island, on the west coast, you will find Sunset Beach (Map), another long strip of sand with a bit of offshore reef. As the name implies, this is a good spot to watch the sun set into the East China Sea.
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DIVE SITES OF OKINAWA
There is decent diving around most of the islands of the Southwest Islands, but the real action is in Okinawa-ken, and the further south you go, the better it gets. Just to whet your appetite a bit, here’s a list of our favourite daibingu-supotto; or ‘dive spots’.
Manta Scramble (below) Located off the west coast of Ishigaki-jima, this popular dive spot virtually guarantees a manta ray sighting if you go in spring and summer.
Irizaki Point If swimming alongside sharks doesn’t absolutely terrify you, this famous spot off the coast of Yonaguni-jima is frequented by schools of hammerheads in winter.
Underwater Ruins One of the most unusual dive spots in Southwest Islands is also located off the coast of Yonaguni-jima, and is home to a mysterious underwater archaeological ruin of unknown origin.
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Diving
The sea around Ishigaki-jima is famous among the Japanese diving community for its large schools of manta rays, particularly from June to October. The most popular place is Manta Scramble, off the coast of Kabira Ishizaki. Although it’s likely that you’ll be sharing with a fair number of dive boats, you’re almost guaranteed to see a manta (or four).
There are a number of dive shops on Ishigaki-jima. Two shops with English-speaking dive guides are Umicoza (88-2434; 827-15 Kabira, Ishigaki-shi; 1/2 dives ¥9450/12,600, equipment rental ¥5250; 8am-6pm) and Sea Friends (82-0863; 346 Ishigaki, Ishigaki-shi Aza; 1/2 dives ¥11,550/15,750, equipment rental ¥3150; 8am-8pm).
Other Attractions
A drive to the far northern tip of the island, Hirakubo-saki (Map), is highly recommended for those who have their own wheels. The view of the waves pounding in over the reefs from this high bluff is spectacular here, and the lighthouse is quite photogenic against the backdrop of the East China Sea.
SLEEPING
Ishigaki City serves as the island’s principal accommodation centre – the following listings are all within walking distance of the ferry terminal.
Yashima Ryokan Youth Hostel (Map; 82-3157; www.jyh.or.jp/english/kyushu/yaesu/index.html; dm ¥2500 with breakfast; ) East of the Yaeyama Museum, this cosy youth hostel is in a traditional Ryūkyū-style house. Accommodation is in several communal Japanese-style tatami rooms with shared facilities.
Rakutenya (Map; 83-8713; www3.big.or.jp/~erm8p3gi/english/english.html; r per person ¥3000; ) This quaint guest house is two blocks north of the covered markets, and has attractive Western- and Japanese-style rooms in a rickety, old wooden house. The managers are a friendly Japanese couple who speak a little bit of English, and are a fantastic source of local information.
Pension Yaima-biyōri (Map; 88-5578; www.yaima-well.net/ybiyori/index.htm, in Japanese; r per person ¥3000) Two blocks northwest of the bus station, this welcoming pension offers simple but spacious Western- and Japanese-style rooms with shared facilities.
Super Hotel Ishigaki (Map; 83-9000; www.infinix.co.jp/sh, in Japanese; s with light breakfast ¥5800; ) Four blocks northeast of the city hall is this efficient business hotel. The rooms are what you’d expect of a business hotel and will suit if you prefer more privacy than a guest house affords.
Hotel Harbor Ishigakijima (Map; 88-8383; s from ¥5250;) You can’t beat the location of this small, friendly three-storey business hotel: it looks right over the harbour and it’s a one-minute walk to the ferry terminal. Rooms are fairly spacious and include massage