Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [613]
Iriomote-jima
0980 / pop 2290
Although it’s just 20km west of Ishigaki-jima, Iriomote-jima could easily qualify as Japan’s last frontier. Dense jungles and mangrove forest blanket more than 90% of the island, and the island is fringed by some of the most beautiful coral reefs in all Japan. If you’re superlucky, you may even spot one of the island’s rare yamaneko, a nocturnal and rarely seen wildcat.
Needless to say, Iriomote-jima is the perfect destination for outdoor enthusiasts. Several rivers penetrate far into the lush interior of the island and these can be explored by riverboat or kayak. Add to the mix sun-drenched beaches and spectacular diving and snorkelling, and it’s easy to see why Iriomote-jima is one of the best destinations in Japan for nature lovers.
Most visitors to Iriomote are day-trippers from Ishigaki, but we recommend spending a night or three if you have the time. If you do so, you’ll be rewarded with a glimpse of a Japan that seems worlds away from central Tokyo.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
Iriomote-jima has a 58km-long perimeter road that runs about halfway around the coast. No roads run into the interior, which is virtually untouched. Boats from Ishigaki-jima either dock at Uehara on the north coast, which is closer to the main points of interest, or at Ōhara on the southeast coast. Ōhara is the closest thing to a population centre on the island. At the western terminus of the main road, you will find the hamlet of Shirahama. The best beaches on the island are around its northern end, while river trips take place on the Urauchi-gawa, in the central/north part of the island.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Beaches
The majority of the island’s beaches are shallow due to the extensive coral reef that surrounds the island. The best swimming beach on the island is Tsuki-ga-hama (Moon Beach; Map), a crescent-shaped yellow-sand beach at the mouth of the Urauchi-gawa on the north coast.
If you’re looking to do a bit of snorkelling, head to Hoshisuna-no-hama (Star Sand Beach; Map) on the northwestern tip of the island. The beach is named after its star sand, which actually consists of the dried skeletons of tiny sea creatures. If you are a competent swimmer and the sea is calm, make your way with mask and snorkel to the outside of the reef – the coral and tropical fish here are spectacular.
From Shirahama (), at the western end of the north coast road, there are four daily boats to the isolated settlement of Funauki (; ¥410). Once there, it’s a mere 10-minute walk on to the absolutely gorgeous Ida-no-hama (Map), which pretty much meets all expectations of a picture-perfect tropical beach.
If you want to have a sandy beach to yourself, head to Haemida-no-hama (Map), at the extreme western end of the south coast road. The seemingly never-ending beach wraps around the coast for kilometres on end, and consists of yellow sand strewn with massive boulders (and, unfortunately, a fair bit of flotsam). On a clear day, you can see the island of Hateruma-jima Click here to the south. There is a parking lot where the asphalt ends and a sign; from here, it’s a 100m walk to the beach.
Onsen
If outdoor activities are rained out, a good back-up plan is the Iriomote Onsen (Map; 85-5700; admission ¥1500; noon-10pm), which is part of the Painu Maya Resort hotel, on the east coast of the island. The onsen consists of sex-separated indoor and outdoor baths. The grounds are attractively landscaped, and there are soothing views of the nearby forest. Buy a ticket at the main counter in the lobby of the resort. The onsen-hotel is easy to miss; it’s off the main road about 20km north of Ōhara.
River Trips
Iriomote’s number-one attraction is a boat trip up the Urauchi-gawa (), a winding brown river that is reminiscent of a tiny stretch of the Amazon. From the mouth of the river,