Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [614]
From a pier on the south side of the river, just east of the bridge in Ōhara, Tōbū Kōtsū (85-5304; 8.30am-5.30pm) runs river cruises up Iriomote’s second-largest river, the Nakama-gawa (). The one-hour tour (¥1500) passes through lush mangroves and thick vegetation.
If you’re the independent type, you can rent kayaks and canoes (¥8000 per day) near both departure points for the river tours.
Hiking
Iriomote has some great hikes, but do not head off into the jungle interior without a local guide: the trails in the interior are hard to follow and the jungle is dense – lots of people have gotten lost and required rescue in recent years. We suggest that you stick to well-marked tracks like the one listed here. If you want to try something more ambitious, your accommodation owner can help arrange a local guide.
At the back of a mangrove-lined bay called Funaura-wan a few kilometres east of Uehara, you can make out a lovely waterfall plunging 55m down the cliffs. This is Pinaisāra-no-taki (; Map), Okinawa’s highest waterfall. When the tide is right, you can paddle a kayak across the shallow lagoon and then follow the Nishida-gawa to the base of the falls. A path branches off and climbs to the top of the falls, from where there are superb views down to the coast. The walk takes less than two hours, and the river is great for a cooling dip.
Unfortunately, it is difficult to find a tour company that will rent you a kayak without requiring you to join a guided tour. If you have a foldable or inflatable kayak, we suggest bringing it. Otherwise, accommodation owners can arrange participation in a guided tour.
For another good hike, try the hikes along the Urauchi-gawa (see River Trips, opposite).
Diving
Iriomote has some brilliant coral around its shores, much of which is accessible to proficient snorkellers. Most of the offshore dive sites around Iriomote are served by dive operators based on Ishigaki; Click here for details.
One spot worth noting is the unusual Barasu-tō, between Iriomote-jima and Hatoma-jima, which is a small island formed entirely of bits of broken coral. In addition to the island itself, the reefs nearby are in quite good condition and make for good boat-based snorkelling on a calm day.
SLEEPING
Iriomote-jima’s accommodation is spread out around the island, so it’s best to phone ahead and make a reservation before arriving on the island. Most places will send a car to pick you up from the ferry terminal if you let them know what time you will be arriving.
In addition to the places listed below, there is a free camping ground with showers, toilets and a cooking area at Haemida-no-hama, on the southern coast of the island, just before the beach parking lot.
Irumote-sō Youth Hostel (Map;85-6255; www.ishigaki.com/irumote, in Japanese; dm from ¥3600; ) If you’re on a budget, a good choice is this well-run youth hostel, which is located fairly close to Uehara Port. Accommodation is in comfortable dorms and simple Japanese-style private rooms. Meals are served in the large communal dining room (breakfast/dinner ¥500/1000). It’s inland and up the hill a little south from Uehara Port; we recommend calling for a pick-up before you arrive the first time, since it’s not easy to find on your own.
Pension Hoshi-no-Suna (Map; 85-6448; www.hoshinosuna.ne.jp; r per person from ¥7500; ) Located right above Hoshinosuna-hama, this popular pension is a great choice in terms of location. Accommodation is in Western- and Japanese-style rooms with ocean