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Eco Village Iriomote (Map; 85-5115; http://eco-village.jp, in Japanese; r per person from ¥10,000; ) This upscale resort on the northeast coat of the island is a good choice for those who want a bit more comfort. There are several types of rooms, from simple rooms in the main building to full-detached beachfront suites. There is an on-site restaurant and kayaks are available for rent.

EATING

With few restaurants on the island, most travellers prefer to take meals at their accommodation (or self-cater). However, if you want a meal out, we recommend the following spot.

Shinpachi Shokudō (Map; 85-6078; lunch & dinner) Just 200m south of the port in Uehara, this no-frills noodle shop is the perfect spot for a hot bowl of sōki-soba (¥700) or a gōya champuru (¥800), washed down with a nice draught beer. Look for the blue front and the banners outside.

For those who want to self-cater, there is a supermarket in the middle of Uehara, just north of Eneos petrol station.

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Yaeyama Kankō Ferry (82-5010), Ishigaki Dream Kankō (84-3178) and Anei Kankō (83-0055) operate ferries between Ishigaki City (on Ishigaki-jima) and Iriomote-jima. Ferries from Ishigaki sail to/from two main ports on Iriomote: Uehara Port (¥2000, 40 minutes, up to 20 daily) and Ōhara Port (¥1540, 35 minutes, up to 27 daily). Note that Uehara Port is more convenient for most destinations on Iriomote.

Six buses each day ply the island’s main coastal road between Ōhara and Shirahama (¥1200, 1½ hours). Due to the relative scarcity of buses, it’s a good idea to rent a car or scooter if you have an International Driving Permit. Yamaneko Rentacar (85-5111) has offices in both Uehara and Ōhara (the Uehara office is on the main road a little south of the ferry pier). Most of the island accommodation also rents bicycles to guests. With plenty of alternative lifestylers on the island, hitching is also an option, but take the usual precautions.

Taketomi-jima

0980 / pop 350

A mere 10-minute boat ride from Ishigaki-jima, the tiny islet of Taketomi-jima is a living museum of Ryūkyū culture. Centred on a flower-bedecked village of traditional houses complete with red kawara (tiled) roofs, coral walls and shiisa statues, Taketomi is a breath of fresh air if you’re suffering from an overdose of modern Japan.

In order to preserve the island’s historical ambience, residents have joined together to ban signs of modernism such as asphalt. Instead, the island is criss-crossed by a series of crushed-coral roads that are ideally explored by the humble push bike. Taketomi is also refreshingly free of other eyesores such as the ubiquitous convenience store, though there are plenty of adorable ‘Mum & Dad’ shops scattered around the island.

While Taketomi is besieged by Japanese day-trippers in the busy summer months, the island is blissfully quiet at night, even in summer. If you have the chance, it’s worth spending a night here as Taketomi truly weaves its spell after the sun dips below the horizon.

ORIENTATION & INFORMATION

Ferries arrive at the small port () on the northeast corner of the island, while Taketomi village is located in the centre of the island. Since the island is only 3km long and 2km wide, it is easily explored on foot or by bicycle.

There’s a small information desk (84-5633; 7.30am-6pm) in the port building, but for the full scoop on Taketomi-jima, head next door to the Taketomi-jima Yugafu-kan (; 85-2488; 8am-5pm) visitors centre, which has excellent displays and exhibits on the island.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

There are a number of modest sights in Taketomi village, though the main attraction here is simply wandering around and soaking up the ambience.

Roughly in the centre of the village, the modest lookout tower of Nagomi-no-tō (admission free; 24hr) has good views over the red-tiled roofs of the pancake-flat island. Nearby, Nishitō Utaki is a shrine dedicated to a 16th-century ruler of Yaeyama-shotō who was born on Taketomi-jima.