Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [616]
Taketomi-jima also has some decent beaches. At Kondoi Beach on the west coast you’ll find the best swimming on the island. Just south is Gaiji-hama, which is the main hoshi-suna (star sand) hunting ground.
SLEEPING & EATING
Many of the traditional houses around the island are Japanese-style ryokan that serve traditional Okinawan cuisine. However, don’t turn up on the last ferry expecting to find accommodation; Taketomi fills up quickly in the summer, so be sure to book ahead.
Takana Ryokan (; 85-2151; www.kit.hi-ho.ne.jp/hayasaka-my, in Japanese; dm with/without meals ¥4390/2990, r per person with meals from ¥8500) Opposite the tiny post office, Takana actually consists of a basic youth hostel and an attached upmarket ryokan. Basic Western-style dorms in the youth hostel are a great option if you’re on a budget, though the charming Japanese-style tatami rooms in the ryokan are a romantic choice if you’re travelling with a loved one.
Ōhama-sō (; 85-2226; fax 85-2226; r per person with/without meals ¥5500/3500) Also beside the post office, this minshuku has a light and jovial atmosphere, especially when the owner starts to entertain on the sanshin (Okinawan three-stringed lute) after dinner. Accommodation is in simple yet comfortable Japanese-style tatami rooms with shared facilities.
Minshuku Izumiya (; 85-2250; r per person with meals ¥5500) On the northwest edge of the village, this intimate minshuku is centred on a stunning traditional garden. Accommodation is in Japanese-style tatami rooms with shared facilities.
Soba Dokoro Takenoko (85-2251; 10.30am-4pm & 6.30-10pm) This tiny restaurant on the northwest side of the village (look for the blue banner and the umbrellas) serves sōki-soba (¥700) and yaki-soba (fried soba; ¥700), as well as Orion beer to wash it down with.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Yaeyama Kankō Ferry (82-5010), Ishigaki Dream Kankō (84-3178) and Anei Kankō (83-0055) operate ferries between Ishigaki City (on Ishigaki-jima) and Taketomi-jima (¥590, 10 minutes, up to 45 daily).
Rental bicycles are great for exploring the crushed-coral roads. Maruhachi Rentals (; 85-2260; bicycles per hr ¥300; 8am-5.15pm) runs a free shuttle between its shop and the port. Another way to see the island is by taking a tour in a water buffalo cart. Two operators in the village offer 30-minute rides for ¥1200 per person.
Hateruma-jima
0980 / pop 600
Forty-five kilometres south of Iriomote-jima is the tiny islet of Hateruma-jima, Japan’s southernmost inhabited island. Just 15km around, Hateruma-jima has a couple of nice beaches and a seriously laid-back vibe.
Ferries arrive at the small port on the northwest corner of the island, while Hateruma village is in the centre. Slightly larger than Taketomi-jima, Hateruma-jima is easily explored by bicycle or scooter. There’s a small information desk (82-5445; 8.30am-5pm, closed Sat, Sun & holidays) in the port building, and also in the airport, that can help you find accommodation on the island.
Just to the west of the port is Nishihama (), a perfect beach of snow-white sand with some good coral offshore. Here you will find free public showers, toilets and a camping ground. At the opposite southeast corner of the island, directly south of the airport, is the impressive Takanasaki (), a 1km-long cliff of Ryūkyū limestone that is pounded by the Pacific Ocean. At the western end of the cliffs is a small monument marking Japan’s southernmost point (), which is an extremely popular photo spot for Japanese visitors.
There are several minshuku on the island, including the popular Minshuku Minoru-sō (; 85-8438; r per person with/without meals ¥5000/2500) near the town centre. The friendly owners rent out bicycles, scooters and snorkelling gear. Accommodation is in cosy Japanese-style tatami rooms. If you make a reservation, the owners can pick