Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [617]
Another good choice is Pension Sainantan (;85-8686; r per person from ¥8500), which has both Japanese- and Western-style rooms, all with unit baths. This place is only three minutes’ walk from Nihihama.
Air Dolphin has one flight a day from Ishigaki to Hateruma-jima (from ¥8500, 25 minutes). Anei Kankō (83-0055) and Hateruma Kaiun (82-7233) each have three ferries a day to Hateruma-jima from Ishigaki (¥3000 and ¥3050 respectively, one hour). There is no public transport on the island, but rental bicycles and scooters are readily available for hire.
Yonaguni-jima
0980 / pop 1630
About 125km west of Ishigaki and 110km east of Taiwan is the islet of Yonaguni-jima, Japan’s westernmost inhabited island. Renowned for its strong sake, small horses and marlin fishing, the island is also home to the jumbo-sized Yonaguni atlas moth, the largest moth in the world.
However, most visitors to the island come to see what lies beneath the waves around the island. In 1985, a diver discovered what appeared to be man-made ‘ruins’ off the south coast of the island. In addition, the waters off the west coast are frequented by large schools of hammerhead sharks. Needless to say, this makes the island perhaps the most famous single diving destination in Japan, and it would make a good counterpoint to a coral reefs and mantas around Ishigaki and Iriomote.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
The ferry port of Kubura () is at the island’s western extreme. The main settlement is around the secondary port of Sonai () on the north coast. In between, on the northwest coast, you’ll find the airport.
There are small information counters (87-2402; 8.30am-5.30pm, closed Tue & Sat) in both the port building and the airport, which can help you find accommodation. Even if you can’t read Japanese, it’s worth picking up a copy of the Japanese-language Yonaguni-jima map.
SIGHTS
Just as Hateruma-jima has a monument to mark Japan’s southernmost point, Yonaguni-jima has a rock to mark the country’s westernmost point () at Irizaki (). If the weather is perfect, the mountains of Taiwan are visible far over the sea (this happens only about twice a year – so don’t be disappointed if you can’t make them out).
Yonaguni has an extremely rugged landscape, and the coastline is marked with great rock formations, much like those on the east coast of Taiwan. The most famous of these are Tachigami-iwa (), literally ‘Standing-God Rock’, Gunkan-iwa () and Sanninu-dai (), all of which are off the southeast coast. At the eastern tip of the island, Yonaguni horses graze in the pastures leading out to the lighthouse at Agarizaki ().
Displays on Yonaguni’s giant moths, which have a wingspan of 25cm to 30cm and are affectionately known as Yonaguni-san, can be seen at Ayamihabiru-kan (; 87-2440; admission ¥500; 10am-4pm Wed-Sun), about 1km south of Sonai.
If you want to sample Hanazake, the island’s infamous local brew, head to Kokusen Awamori (; 87-2315; 8am-5pm), which is located in Sonai and offers free tastings and sales on-site.
ACTIVITIES
Diving
Local divers have long known about the thrills that await at Irizaki Point (), off the coast of Cape Irizaki. In the winter months (January, February and March), the deep waters here are frequented by large schools of hammerhead sharks. Local diver operators say that if you dive here two days in a row during one of the winter months, you have a good chance of seeing a hammerhead school.
Even more popular than the sharks are the famous Kaitei Iseki (Underwater Ruins; ), which were discovered by chance in 1985 by the Japanese marine explorer Kihachirou Aratake. Some claim that these ruins, which look like giant blocks or steps of a sunken pyramid, are the remains of a Pacific Atlantis, although there are equally compelling arguments that they are just the random result of geological processes. We suggest that you judge for yourself. If you don’t dive, Jack’s Dolphin glass-bottomed boat (87-2311; per person ¥6000; sailings at 9am & noon) does two daily trips to the ruins, provided a minimum of three people