Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [89]
Similarly stocked with secondhand shops, bars, cafes and an artsy vibe is Shimo-Kitazawa (; off Map), about 2.5km from Shibuya. Take the Keiō Inokashira line from Shibuya to Shimo-Kitazawa and make a circle through the neighbourhood. From the north exit, turn right and wander the boutique-and-cafe-filled alleys before heading back towards the train tracks. Cross the tracks to check out more shops, lively restaurants, tiny clubs and bars. Once you’ve travelled your loop, find the south entrance to the station on that side of the tracks. Construction on the Odakyū underground rail means that this charming maze of low-rise buildings may be demolished over the next few years, but if the grassroots movement to save Shimo-Kita has its way, this unique neighbourhood may yet survive.
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Getting to the Ghibli (pronounced jiburi) is part of the adventure, if you haven’t booked ahead from your home country; consult the website for details. Within Japan, ticket vouchers can be purchased from ticket machines at Lawson convenience stores. Because the museum imposes a daily visitor quota to provide a quality experience for everyone, you’ll have to choose a date and timeframe to visit. The website provides detailed purchase instructions with illustrations. When you arrive at the museum, you’ll exchange your voucher for a ticket, which contains an original animation cel from a Studio Ghibli film. Combine the museum visit with a stroll through Inokashira-kōen (see the boxed text, above).
The Edo-Tokyo Museum (Map; 3626-9974; www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp; 1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; adult/child ¥600/free, student ¥300-450; 9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun, to 7.30pm Sat; ; JR Sōbu line to Ryōgoku, west exit or Toei Ōedo line to Ryōgoku, exit A4) is a gem, with a replica of Nihombashi (the bridge that is the namesake of today’s Tokyo neighbourhood) dividing this display of re-creations of Edo-period and Meiji-period Tokyo. Exhibits range from examples of actual Edo infrastructure – a wooden sewage pipe, for one – to exquisite scale models of markets and shops, including such meticulous details as period costumes and stray cats scavenging fish scraps. Volunteer foreign-language guides are sometimes available. The museum is adjacent to Ryōgoku Sumō Stadium.
Near the main entrance of Ryōgoku Sumō Stadium, the Sumō Museum (Map;3622-0366; www.sumo.or.jp; 1-3-28 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; admission free; 10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; JR Sōbu line to Ryōgoku, west exit or Toei Ōedo line to Ryōgoku, exit A4) features displays with sumō memorabilia, although there’s no interpretive signage in English. During the grand tournaments in January, May and September the museum is open daily, but only to those attending the tournament. See Ryōgoku Kokugikan Click here for more information.
AMUSEMENT PARKS
Tokyo Disneyland (; off Map; 045-683-3777; www.tokyodisneyresort.co.jp; 1-1 Maihama, Urayasu-shi, Chiba; 1-day ticket adult/youth/child ¥5800/5000/3900; vary; JR Keiyō line to Maihama) is a near-perfect replica of the original in Anaheim, California, but it has the added attraction of a sister park called Tokyo DisneySea, which is aimed at adults. The resort is open year-round except for about a dozen days a year (most of them in January), and opening hours vary seasonally, so check the website before heading out.
Right in the middle of Tokyo, Kōrakuen Amusement Park (Map; 5800-9999; Tokyo Dome City, 1-3-61 Kōraku, Bunkyō-ku; rides ¥200-1000, unlimited rides adult/child ¥3300/2600; 10am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-10.30pm Sun; JR Chūō, Sōbu lines to Suidobashi or Marunouchi line to Kōrakuen, Kōrakuen exit) has some excellent rollercoasters, such as the Thunder Dolphin, which goes through the Ferris wheel and soars over city streets, made even more exciting by its location smack in