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ACTIVITIES

Sentō & Onsen

A good soak at a sentō (public bath) or onsen is a great way to relax after a day pounding the pavements of Tokyo. Inexpensive sentō can be found in every neighbourhood; bring your own towel and look for the hot-water symbol Tokyo also has quite a few onsen, which pipe their mineral water from deep underneath Tokyo Bay. For a primer on bath etiquette, Click here.

Higher-end destination onsen include the Edo-village ‘theme park’, Ōedo Onsen Monogatari in Odaiba, a must-do for lovers of Japanese kitsch. Closer to central Tokyo, Spa LaQua (Map; 3817-4173; www.laqua.jp; 5th-9th fl, Tokyo Dome City, 1-1-1 Kasuga, Bunkyō-ku; adult/youth ¥2565/1890; 11am-9am; JR Chūō & Toei Mita lines to Suidobashi, west exit & exit A3) at Tokyo Dome City offers a true inner-city onsen experience, where you can bathe in spacious luxury and listen to the shudder of the occasional rollercoaster (and delighted screams) from nearby Kōrakuen Amusement Park over the rotemburo (outdoor bath). Be aware that both establishments have strict no-tattoo policies plainly stated in English, but small or discreet tattoos will probably not get you ejected. To be safe, you may want to cover any exposed tattoos when checking in, or temporarily bandage your ink.

For a more authentic neighbourhood bathing experience, Asakusa’s Jakotsu-yu Onsen (Map; 3841-8645; www.jakotsuyu.co.jp, in Japanese; 1-11-11 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; admission ¥450; 1pm-midnight Wed-Mon; Ginza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3) does nicely. One of the hottest in town, with mineral-rich dark water at 45˚C, this onsen has a small garden rotemburo. From Kokusai-dōri, make a right into the second alley north of Kaminarimon-dōri, then slip into the first narrow alley on the right.

In the same neighbourhood, Asakusa Kannon Onsen (Map; 3844-4141; 2-7-6 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; admission ¥700; 6.30am-6pm Thu-Tue; Ginza line to Asakusa, exits 1, 3 & 6) is a large old bathhouse, and probably the only place you’d feel OK about getting naked with the yakuza – not that we’re saying you’d run into any here… Look for its ivy-covered exterior near Sensō-ji.

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WALKING TOUR

Mention the name Kagurazaka (Map) to a Tokyoite, and it will likely conjure visions of geisha turning down cobbled alleys to tucked-away ryōtei (traditional Japanese restaurants). That romantic atmosphere still pervades, surprisingly, in a city known for its hyper-modernity and blasé ease with demolition.

To get there, hop the Tōzai line to Kagurazaka station. From exit 1, turn left and you’ll be at the top of Kagurazaka-dōri, a small one-way street leading downhill. Make another immediate left at the stoplight, and at the end of the alley lies the small shrine, Akagi-jinja Kagurazaka’s most famous feature is its maze-like kakurembo-yokochō (hide-and-seek alleys; 2). Enter the alleys with a right turn at the shrine entrance, to find a wealth of tiny bars (some barely big enough to fit two or three patrons), expat-run French cafes and Italian restaurants, and small homes fronted by bonsai. Make your way up to the peaceful grounds of Tsukudo Hachiman shrine with the oldest torii in Shinjuku-ku.

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WALK FACTS

Distance 2km

Duration 1½ hours

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Roaming back to Kagurazaka-dōri, where the slope below Ōkubo-dōri is lined with mom-and-pop groceries and noisy pachinko parlours, have a look at the shrine Zenkoku-ji also known as Bishamonten for its statue of the military god housed in one of its halls. Head down the hill, to browse the parasols, geta and other kimono-appropriate accessories at Sukeroku 3260-0015; www.bolanet.ne.jp/sukeroku, in Japanese; 3-6 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku; 10.30am-8.30pm). Then stop for an azuki-bean or custard-filled Peko-yaki (grilled pastry shaped like the shop mascot, Peko-chan) at Fujiya 3269-1526; 1-12 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku; 10am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat).

Alternatively, work up an appetite by renting a rowboat at Canal