Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [95]
Conrad Hotel (Map; 6388-8000; fax 6388-8001; www.conradtokyo.co.jp; 1-9-1 Higashi-Shimbashi, Minato-ku; s/d from ¥74,000/79,000; ; Toei Ōedo line to Shiodome, exit 10) It’s big. Whether you choose city or garden views, you’ll find varnished hardwoods and cushy elegance. Enormous bathrooms boast rainshower fixtures, freestanding tubs, Shiseido amenities and floor-to-ceiling glass walls facing the windows. Intrahotel mobile phones, a gym overlooking the 25m pool and huge plasma TVs are some of the superlative perks (though luxuries of wireless internet and parking will cost you ¥1500 and ¥3000 per day, respectively).
Ueno
Ueno and the surrounding neighbourhoods may be a bit removed from the bright lights, but they make a great sightseeing base, especially for museum buffs. Additionally, the many budget ryokan in the area are not only inexpensive but also more interesting than bland business hotels. All hotels listed here accept major credit cards.
BUDGET
If you’re coming from Narita airport, it’s easy and inexpensive to catch a taxi from Ueno station to each of these ryokan, and you can print maps from their websites.
Sawanoya Ryokan (Map; 3822-2251; fax 3822-2252; www.sawanoya.com; 2-3-11 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; s without bathroom ¥5040-5355, d/tr with bathroom ¥10,080/14,490; ; Chiyoda line to Nezu, Yanaka exit) A cosy, family-run ryokan, Sawanoya is a superb choice if you’re looking for a home-like atmosphere in a quiet corner of Shitamachi. The spotless sentō, overlooking a small garden, was recently remodeled, but the comfortable rooms and common areas remain as welcoming as ever.
Ryokan Katsutarō (Map; 3821-9808; fax 3821-4789; www.katsutaro.com; 4-16-8 Ikenohata, Taitō-ku; s/d/tr without bathroom ¥5200/8400/12,300, d/tr with bathroom ¥9600/13,200; ; Chiyoda line to Nezu, exit 2) A pleasant ramble from Ueno Zoo and Ueno-kōen museums, this small, quaint ryokan is run by the friendly brother of the Annex’s manager. Western breakfasts cost an extra ¥800.
Hotel Edoya (Map; 3833-8751; fax 3833-8759; www.hoteledoya.com; 3-20-3 Yushima, Bunkyō-ku; s/d from ¥5890/8540; ; Chiyoda line to Yushima, exit 5) Hotel Edoya is off the main thoroughfares of Ueno and Akihabara but conveniently located just between, while the hotel itself is a perfect balance of Japanese and Western styles. Most rooms are Japanese style with Western bathrooms, and a complimentary buffet breakfast (Japanese or Western) is included. There’s a men’s and women’s rotemburo, coin laundry and common areas for relaxing in front of a small garden or playing some mah-jong.
Annex Katsutarō Ryokan (Map; 3828-2500; fax 3821-5400; www.katsutaro.com; 3-8-4 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; s/d/tr from ¥6300/10,500/14,700; ; Chiyoda line to Sendagi, exit 2) All of the bright, Japanese-style rooms at the spotless Annex have Western-style baths and LAN internet. The ryokan offers a continental breakfast for ¥840, as well as a coin laundry and in-room amenities, such as hairdryer and electric kettle.
Sakura Ryokan (Map;3876-8118; www.sakura-ryokan.com; 2-6-2 Iriya, Taitō-ku; s/d ¥6600/11,000, without bathroom ¥5500/10,000; ; Hibiya line to Iriya, exit 1) One stop from Ueno, the modest, family-run Sakura Ryokan is a good base for those interested in staying in contemporary working-class Shitamachi. Definitely opt for a Japanese-style room. Japanese or Western breakfasts cost a reasonable ¥840, and a home-cooked Japanese dinner is offered Monday through Saturday for ¥1680.
MIDRANGE
Suigetsu Hotel Ōgaisō (Map; 3822-4611; fax 3823-4340; www.ohgai.co.jp; 3-3-21 Ikenohata, Taitō-ku; Western-style s/d/tw ¥6820/9870/10,280, Japanese-style s/d/tr ¥12,275/13,850/17,725; ; Chiyoda line to Nezu, exit 2) Writers may find symbolic inspiration here, where this hotel’s namesake penned his first novel Maihime