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Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [96]

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in 1890. Though set up like a Western hotel, it offers tatami rooms, several large Japanese-style baths and a lovely garden in the centre of the complex. Japanese meals are available, and the hotel is a pleasant walk from Ueno-kōen.

Sutton Place Hotel (Map; 3842-2411; www.thehotel.co.jp/jp/sutton_ueno; 7-8-23 Ueno, Taitō-ku; s/d from ¥7800/11,000; ; JR Yamanote line to Ueno, Iriya exit) The discreet entrance off busy Shōwa-dōri leads to the newly remade, very nicely appointed Sutton Place Hotel. This business hotel shines with thoughtful touches, such as hairdryers, LAN internet access, sliding wooden bathroom doors and all-around sleek styling. Rooms are definitely small, so it’s worth springing for a larger twin or suite if you’re travelling with someone. A complimentary continental breakfast is included.

Hotel Parkside (Map; 3836-5711; fax 3831-6641; www.parkside.co.jp; 2-11-18 Ueno, Taitō-ku; s/d from ¥9200/15,500, Japanese style d from ¥18,000; ; JR Yamanote line to Ueno, Shinobazu exit) Overlooking the gigantic lotus pads of Shinobazu-ike, the Parkside is a good choice in Ueno, if you can get a room on the 4th floor or above. The best spot in the house is the Japanese-style room with private rotemburo; Western-style rooms are comfortable but nothing extraordinary. Parking is ¥1050.

Asakusa

If you don’t mind sacrificing central location for unpretentious Shitamachi atmosphere, Asakusa is a fine place to stay, crammed with some of Tokyo’s best budget ryokan and hostels. If you’re coming from outside of Tokyo, the Tsukuba Express is the fastest line to Asakusa.

BUDGET

Unless otherwise specified, all of the places listed here have detailed maps and directions on their websites, and do not accept credit cards.

Khaosan Tokyo Annex (Map; 5856-6560; www.khaosan-tokyo.com/en/annex; 2-2-5 Higashi-Komagata, Sumida-ku; dm/s/tw from ¥2000/3600/4600, cabins ¥2800; ; Toei Asakusa line to Asakusa, exit A2) One of the several Khaosan guest houses in the neighbourhood, the annex offers novel ‘cabin’ rooms in addition to the usual dorm beds and private rooms. Cabins come outfitted with cute capsule-like bed pods that have sliding wooden doors for privacy. The Annex offers bike rental, free wireless internet, coin laundry and a free drink each night.

Khaosan Tokyo Guesthouse (Map; 3842-8286; www.khaosan-tokyo.com; 2-1-5 Kaminarimon, Taitō-ku; dm/s/tw ¥2200/3700/5000; ; Ginza, Toei Asakusa lines to Asakusa, exits 4 & A2b) Very friendly, remarkably inexpensive and homey, the Khaosan is a warm intro to Tokyo. Located on the bank of the Sumida-gawa, it has a tiny but cheery kitchen and pleasant rooftop terrace.

K’s House (Map; 5833-0555; fax 5833-0444; http://kshouse.jp/tokyo-e/index.html; 3-20-10 Kuramae, Taitō-ku; dm/s/d from ¥2800/3400/6800; ; Toei Asakusa, Toei Ōedo lines to Kuramae, exits A2 & A6) This spotless guest house has homey common areas and a well-equipped kitchen. There’s also a coin-operated laundry and a rooftop terrace overlooking Sumida-gawa. Internet access is ¥100 for 20 minutes in the relaxed, cosy living area (wi-fi is free) and free LAN access is available in each room. Credit cards are accepted here.

Tokyo Ryokan (Map; 090-8879-3599; www.tokyoryokan.com; 2-4-8 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; per person with shared bathroom ¥3000; ; Ginza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3) With only three hinoki-walled tatami rooms in this immaculate, intimate ryokan, book well ahead through the website. Internet access is available for ¥10 per minute. The English-speaking owner here is helpful and open, and always happy to talk travel and philosophy.

There are too many good-value budget spots in the area to list exhaustively, but here are a few:

Asakusa Ryokan Tōkaisō (Map; 3844-5618; www.toukaisou.com; 2-16-12 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; dm/s/tw from ¥2600/4500/6000; ; Ginza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3) Tucked in a corner of Asakusa, this is a clean, quiet ryokan.

Sakura Hostel (Map; 3847-8111; www.sakura-hostel.co.jp; 2-24-2 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; dm/tw from ¥2940/8295; ; Ginza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3) This bright, clean hostel offers

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