Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [97]
Capsule Hotel Riverside (Map; 3844-5117; fax 3841-6566; www.asakusa-capsule.jp/english; 2-20-4 Kaminarimon, Taitō-ku; capsules ¥3000; Ginza, Toei Asakusa lines to Asakusa, exits 3 & 4) This is one capsule hotel that accepts women; with a women-only floor and sentō. Look for the entrance around the back of the building.
Taitō Ryokan (Map; 3843-2822, 090-5321-3599; www.libertyhouse.gr.jp; 2-1-4 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; per person with shared bathroom ¥3000; ; Ginza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3) The traditional, creaky Taitō is run by sociable English speakers. Solo travellers should expect to share a room when demand is high.
MIDRANGE
Both of these ryokan accept credit cards:
Ryokan Shigetsu (Map; 3843-2345; fax 3843-2348; www.shigetsu.com; 1-31-11 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; Western-style s/tw ¥7665/14,900, Japanese-style s/d from ¥9450/17,200; ; Ginza, Toei Asakusa lines to Asakusa, exits 1 & 2) This ryokan is a gorgeous oasis of Japanese hospitality, just off Nakamise-dōri. Most rooms have bathrooms, but bathing in the sentō is a must – both the black granite bath and the hinoki one have unique, stunning views. Lovely Japanese breakfasts cost ¥1300.
Sukeroku No Yado Sadachiyo (Map; 3842-6431; fax 3842-6433; www.sadachiyo.co.jp; 2-20-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; s/d from ¥14,100/19,400; Ginza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3 or Tsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit A1) Another traditionally elegant spot, just far enough removed from bustling Nakamise-dōri, the Sadachiyo features rooms of shōji (movable screens) and tatami, each with a Western-style bath. There’s also one wood and one granite sentō, and guests can order delicious Japanese breakfasts (¥1500) and dinners (¥7000) to take in the lovely banquet room.
TOP END
Asakusa View Hotel (Map; 3847-1111; fax 3842-2117; www.viewhotels.co.jp/asakusa/english/index.html; 3-17-1 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; s/d from ¥17,525/26,800; ; Ginza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3) The ritziest joint in the neighbourhood isn’t called the Asakusa View for nothing. While rooms aren’t particularly striking, the views are, and they are spacious. Try to swing a room on a higher floor on the east side for beautiful views of Sensō-ji. There’s a charge to use the indoor pool (¥3000/2000 per adult/child).
Ikebukuro
Ikebukuro, though a convenient stop on the JR Yamanote line, is not one of Tokyo’s sexiest neighbourhoods – but this low-key district does have its attractions and a certain unflashy appeal.
BUDGET
Book well ahead at these popular ryokan whose websites contain maps and directions; credit cards are not accepted at either.
Kimi Ryokan (Map; 3971-3766; fax 3987-1326; www.kimi-ryokan.jp; 2-36-8 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; s ¥4725, d ¥6825-7875; ; JR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, west exit) Kimi Ryokan is one of Tokyo’s best budget accommodation options, with clean tatami rooms and a convivial wood-floored lounge area decorated with the wonderful owner’s changing ikebana. The shared bathrooms each has both a shower and a Japanese-style bath.
House Ikebukuro (Map; 3984-3399; fax 3984-3999; www.housejp.com.tw; 2-20-1 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; d/tr ¥8000/11,000, s/d/tr without bathroom from ¥5000/6000/8000; ; JR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, west exit) Also in west Ikebukuro, this guest house has a variety of smallish tatami rooms, all with shared bathroom and a spotless common kitchen. Also available are the apartment-like suites in the annexe, with kitchenettes and bathrooms.
MIDRANGE
There are innumerable business, love and capsule hotels in the Ikebukuro area. Be aware that the local capsule hotels are not as accustomed to foreign guests as their counterparts in Akasaka and Shinjuku.
Toyoko Inn (Map; 5960-1045; fax 5960-1046; www.toyoko-inn.com/eng; 2-50-5 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; s ¥7140, d & tw ¥9240; ; JR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, north exit) The Toyoko Inn is one of the most appealing of the cheaper business hotels around here. Rooms are tidy, if tiny, and even single rooms have semidouble beds. Japanese-style rooms