London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [205]
Becket’s tomb, destroyed by Henry VIII in 1538 as part of his campaign to reduce the power of the Church and confiscate its treasures, was one of the most extravagant shrines in Christendom. In Trinity Chapel, which held the shrine, you can still see a series of 13th-century stained-glass windows illustrating Becket’s miracles. The actual site of Becket’s murder is down a flight of steps just to the left of the nave, and marked with a simple sign that says only “Becket.” If time permits, be sure to explore the Cloisters, the Romanesque Crypt, and the small monastic buildings north of the cathedral. | Cathedral Precincts | CT1 2HR | 01227/762862 | www.canterbury-cathedral.org | £8; free for services | Easter–Oct., Mon.–Sat. 9–5:30, Sun. 12:30–2:30; Nov.–Easter, Mon.–Sat. 9–5, Sun. 12:30–2:30. Last entry 30 min before closing. Restricted access during services.
To learn more about Chaucer’s legendary pilgrims on their way to Canterbury, visit the Canterbury Tales, an audiovisual (and occasionally olfactory) dramatization of 14th-century English life. You’ll “meet” Chaucer’s pilgrims at the Tabard Inn near London and view tableaux illustrating five tales. In summer, actors in period costumes play out scenes from the town’s history. | St. Margaret’s St. | CT1 2TG | 01227/479227 | www.canterburytales.org.uk | £7.75 | Nov.–Dec., daily 10–4:30; Mar.–June, Sept., and Oct., daily 10–5; July and Aug., daily 9:30–5.
The medieval Poor Priests’ Hospital is now the site of the Museum of Canterbury (previously the Canterbury Heritage Museum). Its exhibits provide an excellent overview of the city’s history and architecture from Roman times to World War II, although the displays are a strange mix of the serious (the Blitz) and the silly (cartoon characters Bagpuss and Rupert Bear). It also touches on the mysterious death of the 16th-century poet and playwright Christopher Marlowe. It’s definitely child-friendly—kids can even look at “medieval poo” under a microscope. Visit early in the day to avoid the crowds. | 20 Stour St. | CT1 2RA | 01227/452747 | www.canterbury-museums.co.uk | £3.60 | Jan.–May and Oct.–Dec., Mon.–Sat. 11–4:30; June–Sept., Mon.–Sat. 11–4:30, Sun. 1:30–4:30; last admission at 4.
Only one of the city’s seven medieval gatehouses survives, complete with twin castellated towers; it now contains the West Gate Towers Museum. Inside are medieval bric-a-brac and armaments used by the city guard, as well as more contemporary weaponry. Built in the 14th century, the building became a jail in the 15th century, and you can view the prison cells. Climb to the roof for a panoramic view of the city spires. Because it’s accessed by spiral stone stairs, this museum is only for those without mobility problems. | St. Peter’s St. | CT1 2BQ | 01227/452747 | www.canterbury-museums.co.uk | £1.30 | Sat. 11–12:30 and 1:30–3:30; last admission 15 min before closing. Closed Christmas wk.
Perhaps the best view of Canterbury’s medieval past comes from following its 13th- and 14th-century medieval city walls, which were themselves built on the line of the original Roman walls. Those to the east have survived intact, towering some 20 feet high and offering a sweeping view of the town. You can access these from a number of places, including Castle and Broad streets.
Augustine, England’s first Christian missionary, was buried in 597 at St. Augustine’s Abbey, one of the oldest monastic sites in the country. When Henry VIII seized the abbey in the 16th century, he destroyed some of the buildings and converted others into a royal manor for his fourth wife, Anne of Cleves. A free interactive audio tour vividly puts events into context. The abbey is the base for Canterbury’s biennial Sculpture Festival (held in odd-number years). Contemporary sculpture is placed on the grounds, and in other locations