London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [206]
Dane John Gardens (the name is a corruption of donjon, French for a castle keep) offers a children’s maze and a historic monument, Dane John Mound, the remains of a Norman fortress that formed part of the city defenses and today offers excellent cathedral views. | Waitling St. | CT1 2RN | 01227/452747 | www.canterbury-museums.co.uk.
WHERE TO EAT IN CANTERBURY
City Fish Bar.
£ | BRITISH | Long lines and lots of satisfied finger-licking attest to the deserved popularity of this excellent fish-and-chips outlet in the center of town. Everything is freshly fried, the batter is crisp, and the fish is tasty; the fried mushrooms are also surprisingly good. It closes at 7. | 30 St. Margaret’s St. | CT1 2TG | 01227/760873 | No credit cards.
Duck Inn.
£–££ | BRITISH | About 5 mi outside of Canterbury, this lovely, low-roof traditional pub is a great favorite among regular visitors to the city. Its pleasant rural location yields a bit of country charm, and dishes such as game pies are delightfully traditional. The name is said to come from the fact that the beams above the entrance are so low that you must duck as you enter or risk bashing your head. | Pett Bottom, near bridge | CT4 5PB | 01227/830354 | AE, MC, V.
Weavers.
£–££ | BRITISH | In one of the Weavers’ Houses (the Weavers were Huguenots and Walloons who fled persecution in continental Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries) on the River Stour, this popular restaurant in the center of town is an ideal place to revel in the Tudor surroundings and feast on generous portions of British comfort food. Traditional pies and grills, seafood, and pasta dishes are served along with a good selection of wines. Ask for a table in the more sedate ground-floor dining area. | 1 St. Peter’s St. | CT1 2AT | 01227/464660 | AE, MC, V.
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Exploring Oxford | Where to Eat in Oxford
62 mi (100 km) northwest of London.
The university that educated former Prime Minister Tony Blair, former President Bill Clinton, and writers J. R. R. Tolkien, Percy Bysshe Shelley, Oscar Wilde, W. H. Auden, and C. S. Lewis is the heart and soul of the town. Its fabled “dreaming spires” can be seen for miles around, and it’s not at all unusual to see robed students rushing to class or harried dons clutching mortarboards as they race to exams on bicycles. Dating from the 12th century, Oxford University is older than Cambridge, and the city is bigger and more cosmopolitan than its competitor to the east. It’s satisfyingly filled with hushed quadrangles, chapels, canals, rivers, and vivid gardens. Bikes are inevitably propped against picturesque wrought-iron railings, and students propel flat-bottom boats down the little River Cherwell with long poles. (It’s harder than it looks, but you can rent a punt yourself at the foot of Magdalen Bridge.)
In the end, though, central Oxford is also a bit of an illusion. Outside of the eminently photographable university area, it’s a major industrial center, with sprawling modern suburbs and large car and steel plants around its fringes.
Visiting the Colleges
The same concerns for people’s work and privacy hold here as in Cambridge. Note that many of the colleges and university buildings are closed around Christmas (sometimes Easter, too) and on certain days from April to June for exams and degree ceremonies.
If you have limited time, get a detailed map from the tourist office and focus on selected sights. The Oxford University Web site (www.ox.ac.uk) is a great source of information if you’re planning to go it alone.
Tours
Guided city walking tours (both themed and general) leave the Oxford Tourist Information Centre at different times throughout the day. | 15–16 Broad St. | OX1 3AS | 01865/252200 | www.visitoxford.org | Tours