Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [272]
Some of the county’s best beaches are north of the Shores in Torrey Pines City Park, which covers the coastline from the Salk Institute (right) up to the Torrey Pines State Reserve. At extreme low tides (about twice per year), you can walk from the Shores north to Del Mar along the beach. Hang-gliders and paragliders launch into the sea breezes rising over the cliffs at Torrey Pines Gliderport, at the end of Torrey Pines Scenic Dr. It’s a beautiful sight – tandem flights are available if you can’t resist trying it Click here. Down below, Black’s Beach is one of America’s most storied clothing-optional venues – though bathing suits are technically required, most folks here don’t seem to know that; there’s a gay section at the far (north) end.
Birch Aquarium at Scripps
Marine scientists were working at the Birch Aquarium at Scripps Institution of Oceanography (SIO) as early as 1910 and, helped by donations from the ever-generous Scripps family, the institute has grown to be one of the world’s largest marine research institutions. It is now a part of UCSD, and its pier is a landmark.
Off N Torrey Pines Rd, SIO’s Birch Aquarium (Map; 858-534-3474; www.aquarium.ucsd.edu; 2300 Expedition Way; adult/child/student/senior $11/7.50/8/9; 9am-5pm; ) has brilliant displays. The Hall of Fishes has more than 30 fish tanks, simulating marine environments from the Pacific Northwest to tropical seas. If you’re interested in studying oceanography or seeing the campus, pick up the self-guided campus-tour brochure. Parking is free.
The SIO is not to be confused with the Scripps Research Institute (10550 Torrey Pines Rd), a private, nonprofit biomedical research organization.
Salk Institute
In 1960 Jonas Salk, the polio-prevention pioneer, founded the Salk Institute (Map; 858-453-4100 ext 1287; www.salk.edu; 10010 N Torrey Pines Rd; tours noon Mon & Wed-Fri by reservation) for biological and biomedical research. San Diego County donated 27 acres of land, the March of Dimes provided financial support and renowned architect Louis Kahn designed the building. Completed in 1965, it is regarded as a modern masterpiece, with its classically proportioned travertine marble plaza and cubist, mirror-glass laboratory blocks framing a perfect view of the Pacific, and the fountain in the courtyard symbolizing the River of Life. The Salk Institute attracts the best scientists to work in a research-only environment. The original buildings were expanded with new laboratories designed by Jack McAllister, a follower of Kahn’s work.
Torrey Pines State Reserve
Between N Torrey Pines Rd and the ocean, and from the Torrey Pines Gliderport to Del Mar, this reserve (Map; 858-755-2063; www.torreypine.org; 12600 N Torrey Pines Rd; 8am-dusk; ) preserves the last mainland stands of the Torrey pine (Pinus torreyana), a species adapted to sparse rainfall and sandy, stony soils. Steep sandstone gullies are eroded into wonderfully textured surfaces, and the views over the ocean and north are superb.
The main access road, Torrey Pines Scenic Dr, off N Torrey Pines Rd (bues 41 and 301) at the reserve’s northern end, leads to a simple adobe – built as a lodge in 1922 by – who else? – Ellen Browning Scripps. The lodge now serves as a visitors center with good displays on the local flora and fauna. Rangers lead nature walks from here at 10am and 2pm on weekends and holidays. Several walking trails wind through the reserve and down to the beach.
Torrey Pines State Reserve and La Jolla Cove are also good spots for whale-watching. Parking costs $8.
University of California, San Diego
UCSD (Map; 858-534-2230; www.ucsd.edu) was established in 1960, and now has more than 18,000 students