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and an excellent academic reputation, particularly for mathematics and science programs. It lies on rolling coastal hills in a parklike setting, surrounded by tall, fragrant eucalyptus trees. Its most distinctive structure is the Geisel Library, an upside-down pyramid of glass and concrete, whose namesake, children’s author Theodor Geisel, is better known as Dr Seuss, creator of the Cat in the Hat. He and his wife contributed substantially to the library, which exhibits a collection of his drawings and books on the ground floor.

From the eastern side of the library’s second level, an allegorical snake created by artist Alexis Smith winds down a native California plant garden past an enormous marble copy of John Milton’s Paradise Lost. The piece is part of the Stuart Collection of outdoor sculptures spread around campus. Other works include Niki de Saint Phalle’s Sun God, Bruce Nauman’s Vices & Virtues (which spells out seven of each in huge neon letters), Robert Irwin’s very blue Fence and a forest of talking trees. Most installations are near the Geisel Library, and details are available from the Visual Arts Building or the Price Center, where the UCSD bookstore (Map; 858-534-7323) has excellent stock and helpful staff. Inside the Mandell Weiss Center for the Performing Arts, the La Jolla Playhouse (Map; 858-550-1010; www.lajollaplayhouse.com) is known for its high-quality productions.

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ACTIVITIES

Diving & Surfing

Some of California’s best and most accessible (no boat needed) diving is in the San Diego–La Jolla Underwater Park Ecological Reserve, accessible from La Jolla Cove. With an average depth of 20ft, the 6000 acres of look-but-don’t-touch underwater real estate is great for snorkeling, too. Ever-present are the spectacular, bright orange Garibaldi fish – California’s official state fish and a protected species (there’s a $500 fine for poaching one). Further out, you’ll see forests of giant California kelp (which can increase its length by up to 3ft per day) and the 100ft-deep La Jolla Canyon.

A number of commercial outfits conduct scuba-diving courses, sell or rent equipment, fill tanks, and conduct boat trips to nearby wrecks and islands. Snorkels and fins cost around $8 each per day, or rent all the equipment for $25; scuba-gear rental packages start at about $50. The Cave Store has them, or, by the water, OEX ( 858-454-6195; www.oeexpress.com; 2158 Avenida de la Playa) is a full-service PADI dive shop in La Jolla Shores that provides rentals and instruction. Dive tours start at $60.

Experienced surfers can head to Windansea Beach, 2 miles south of Downtown (take La Jolla Blvd south and turn west on Nautilus St); the surf’s consistent peak (a powerful reef break that’s not for beginners) works best at medium to low tide. However, some of the locals can be unfriendly toward outsiders. You’ll find a more pleasant welcome immediately south, at the foot of Palomar Ave, Big Rock, California’s version of Hawaii’s Pipeline, which has steep, hollow, gnarly tubes. The name comes from the large chunk of reef protruding just offshore – a great spot for tide-pooling at low tide. La Jolla Shores and Black’s Beach are also popular surfing spots.

The wonderful women at Surf Diva (Map; 858-454-8273; www.surfdiva.com; 2160 Avenida de la Playa) offer surf classes (some just for women), including two-day weekend workshops for $135.

Kayaking

OEX (opposite) rents kayaks for $28 for two hours and offers sightseeing instructions; two-hour kayak tours are $45 per person.

Hang Gliding

Glider riders hang at Torrey Pines Gliderport (Map; 858-452-9858; www.flytorrey.com; 2800 Torrey Pines Scenic Dr; 20min tandem flight per person $150), a world-famous gliding location. It’s also one of the best gliding schools in the country.

Experienced pilots can join in if they have a USHGA Hang 4 rating and take out an associate membership of the Torrey Pines Hang Glider Association.

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SLEEPING

Lodging in central La Jolla ain’t cheap, but lower-priced chains are a quick drive