Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [282]
Pizza Port ( 760-720-7007; 571 Carlsbad Village Dr; pizzas $7-20; 11am-11pm; ) Head here for Carlsbad’s best pies (the ‘Carlsbad’ has pesto, mesquite grilled chicken and artichoke hearts, and there’s a list of ‘anti-wimpy gourmet pizzas’) and beer brewed on-site.
Le Passage ( 760-729-7097; 2961 State St; mains lunch $8-16, dinner $16-28; lunch Tue-Fri, dinner Tue-Sun) Escape from the beach fray at this country French bistro. There’s a rustique interior and cozy back patio on which to enjoy baked brie or lavender-roasted chicken.
Also check out the restaurants at La Costa Resort & Spa (left) and Four Seasons Aviara (above).
Shopping
Big-name retailers, such as Donna Karan and Kenneth Cole, have outlets at the Carlsbad Company Stores ( 760-804-9000, 888-790-7467; Paseo del Norte; 10am-8pm). Take I-5 to Palomar Airport Rd; go east to Paseo del Norte and turn north.
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OCEANSIDE
pop 175,000
Home for many of the employees who work at giant Camp Pendleton Marine Base on the town’s northern border, Oceanside has a huge military presence. So despite its attractive natural setting, Oceanside feels more functional than its coastal neighbors. Amtrak, Greyhound, the Coaster and MTS buses all stop at the Oceanside Transit Center (Map; 235 S Tremont St).
Stop in at the California Welcome Center (Map; 760-721-1101, 800-350-7873; www.oceansidechamber.com, www.californiawelcomecenter.org; 928 N Coast Hwy; 9am-5pm), which has helpful staff, to get coupons for local attractions, as well as maps and information for the San Diego area and the entire state.
Sights & Activities
The wooden Oceanside Pier extends more than 1900ft out to sea. Bait-and-tackle shops rent poles. Two major surf competitions – the West Coast Pro-Am and the National Scholastic Surf Association (NSSA) – take place near the pier in June.
See a history of surf contests at the wonderful California Surf Museum ( 760-721-6876; www.surfmuseum.org; 223 N Coast Hwy; donations welcome; 10am-4pm). Displays change annually and have included topics from legendary surfers like Duke Kahanamoku and surfing’s influence on pop culture. At the time of writing, the museum was due to move to its new location at 312 Pier View Way in summer 2008.
Little remains from the 1880s, when the new Santa Fe coastal railway came through Oceanside, but a few buildings designed by Irving Gill and Julia Morgan still stand. The Welcome Center has a pamphlet describing a self-guided history walk.
At the northern end of the waterfront, the extensive Oceanside Harbor provides slips for hundreds of boats. Helgren’s ( 760-722-2133; www.helgrensportfishing.com; 315 Harbor Dr S) leads a variety of charter trips for sportfishing (from $42 per half day) and whale-watching (adult/child costs $25/15).
Founded in 1798, Mission San Luis Rey de Francia ( 760-757-3651; www.sanluisrey.org; 4050 Mission Ave, Hwy 76; admission $5; 10am-4pm) was the largest California mission and the most successful in recruiting Native American converts. At one point some 3000 neophytes lived and worked here. After the Mexican government secularized the missions, San Luis fell into ruin; the adobe walls of the church, from 1811, are the only original parts left. Inside are displays on work and life in the mission, with some original religious art and artifacts. The mission is 4 miles inland.
Surfers can rent equipment at Action Beach Board Shop (Map; 760-722-7101; www.actionbeach.com; 310 Mission Ave; surfboards 2hr/full day $10/20, wet suits $5/10). Team Wahine Surfing School ( 760-439-5679; www.teamwahine.com; 260 Harbor Dr S; ) gives year-round lessons (one/two persons costs $70/65 for the first hour, including gear) and has surf camps for kids.
Sleeping & Eating
Oceanside Marina Suites (Map; 760-722-1561, 800-252-2033; www.omihotel.com; 2008 Harbor Dr; r incl breakfast $135-200; wi-fi) Inexpensive national chains abound in Oceanside,