Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [283]
Beach Break Café (Map; 760-439-6355; 1902 S Coast Hwy; mains under $8; breakfast & lunch; ) Fuel up on eggs, sandwiches, tacos and salads at this surfers’ diner on the east side of the road in a small shopping center.
Kealani’s (Map; 760-722-5642; 207 N Coast Hwy; mains $4-8; 11am-8pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat, 11am-6pm Wed; ) Traditional Hawaiian plate lunches, such as kalua pig, teriyaki chicken and grilled mahimahi are the thing in this cheery storefront with booths like little grass shacks.
101 Café (Map; 760-722-5220; 631 S Coast Hwy; most mains $4-10; breakfast, lunch & dinner; ) This tiny 1928 streamline moderne diner serves the classics: omelettes, burgers etc. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch the owner and can quiz him about local history.
Ruby’s Diner ( 760-433-7829; 1 Oceanside Pier; most mains $7-14; breakfast, lunch & dinner; ) This mid-priced ’50s-style diner has good burgers and milkshakes, big breakfasts and a full bar. Yes, it’s a chain, but it’s right at the end of the pier.
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AROUND SAN DIEGO
JULIAN
pop 3000
This mountain hamlet (elevation 4450ft/1300m), with a three-block main street, is a favorite getaway for city folk for its 1870s streetscape, gold mining history and famous apple pies. Although it’s near the geographical center of San Diego County, by the time you reach it from anywhere else it really feels like you’ve been on a journey.
Prospectors (many Confederate veterans) first arrived here after the Civil War (1861–1865), and the discovery of gold in 1869 led to a growth spurt (to a whopping 600); mining continued for over 60 years. Later, much of the land was given over to farming, and Julian-farmed apples won prizes at world fairs; today there are about 17,000 trees. Woe be it to the visitor who does not take home a pie, or at least do some taste-testing.
Autumn is prime time. Shops and stands sell fresh local apples (inquire locally about child-friendly ‘pick-your-own’ opportunities). It’s especially busy during the Grape Stomp and Apple Days Festivals (early September and early October, respectively). Look for snow in winter.
Orientation
Central Julian (population 300) runs along Main St. Inside Town Hall, the friendly Chamber of Commerce ( 760-765-1857; www.julianca.com; 2129 Main St; 10am-4pm) offers info, maps and brochures.
Sights & Activities
Eagle and High Peak Mine ( 760-765-0036; end of C St; adult/child $10/5; from 10am; ) offers instructive tours of Julian’s now-defunct gold mines as you go through 1000ft (nearly 300m) of tunnels and learn to pan for gold. The Julian Pioneer Museum ( 760-765-0227; 2811 Washington St; suggested donation $3; 10am-4pm Fri-Sun Apr-Nov, Sat & Sun Dec-Mar) exhibits mining equipment, period clothing, photos and Native American artifacts, and a lace collection. Weather permitting, Doves & Desperadoes shows take place Sundays at 1pm, 2pm and 3pm on Main St; costumed, comedic recreations of late 1800s’ mining days, minus the bloodshed, cursing and real bullets.
About 3 miles north of town, Menghini Winery ( 760-765-2072; 1150 Julian Orchards Dr; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) is one of several in the area; this one offers tastings and picnic grounds. Further afield, Lake Cuyamaca ( 760-765-0515; 15027 Hwy 79; 6am-sunset, check times in Dec & Jan) is well-stocked with trout, small-mouthed bass and more, and has boats for rent. There’s a dog-friendly 3.5 mile walk around the lake. California Wolf Center ( 760-765-0030; 18457 Hwy 79; admission $8; Sat by reservation) offers 1½-hour tours including a slide show and visit with wolf packs.
Sleeping
Julian Hotel ( 760-765-0201, 800-734-5854; www.julianhotel.com; 2032 Main St; r from $120, cottages from $160; ) In the center of town, this 1897 hostelry boasts Victorian furnishings, friendly owners and a nice complimentary breakfast.