Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [305]
Backcountry camping is permitted as long as it’s 1 mile from the road and 500ft from any trail; registration is required at one of the 12 backcountry boards throughout the park. Fires are strictly forbidden.
Motels, Inns & Cabins
Twentynine Palms has the biggest selection of accommodations, but many are grotty no-tell motels (some geared more toward hourly than nightly rentals). As in other desert communities, we’re giving high season (winter/spring) rates. Look for national chain lodgings via their websites. See also Pioneertown (opposite).
TWENTYNINE PALMS
Harmony Motel (Map; 760-367-3351; www.harmonymotel.com; 71161 Twentynine Palms Hwy; r $60-85; wi-fi) U2 wrote and recorded the Joshua Tree album here, and that’s only one reason it’s top pick for its class. The eight-room Harmony is a little designy (corrugated metal fencing around the pool and hot tub) and a little hippy-dippy (rooms decorated in a jumble of styles). There are large rooms (several with kitchens), gorgeous views and nooks for reading or meditating, a favorite pastime of the owner. Breakfast is not included, but there’s a communal kitchen and library.
29 Palms Inn (Map; 760-367-3505; www.29palmsinn.com; 73950 Inn Ave, Twentynine Palms; most rooms & suites incl breakfast $85-225; ) Built on and around the ‘Oasis of Mara’, this charming collection of old adobe-and-wood cabins is Twentynine Palms’ inn of record. Some cabins have decks and fireplaces, perfect for relaxing on cool desert evenings. The continental breakfast includes scratch muffins. There’s also a great restaurant on the premises.
* * *
DESERT SURVIVAL 101
The desert is an unforgiving place with summertime temperatures up to 120°F, but if you take precautions you’ll have nothing to fear. Here are some tips to help prepare for the worst and expect the best:
Drink: water. Don’t risk being stranded without it. Plan on drinking at least a gallon of water per day, and double that if you’re hiking or boozing it up. Your body may be dehydrated before you realize it. If your urine runs darker than pale yellow, it’s often a sign that you’re getting dehydrated (unless you take a lot of vitamins). Sports drinks high in sodium and potassium are also helpful.
Eat: salty foods. However, avoid salt tablets unless your physician recommends them. See the Health chapter for more information on heatstroke.
Wear: loose-fitting, light-colored, long-sleeved clothing. Also wear a hat and use sunscreen and lip balm. Bring warmer clothing for nighttime, especially if you’re camping; the desert can be surprisingly chilly after dark.
Take: compass and map (and know how to use them). GPS units can be helpful, but sometimes batteries fail and units malfunction. A small mirror, matches and perhaps even flares can help you signal for help. A tent or groundsheet can provide vital sun protection and increase your visibility. Also useful: flashlight, pocketknife, first-aid kit and extra food and water. Cell phones can be helpful but don’t work everywhere.
Do: be sure your vehicle is in good condition and well gassed up, and don’t push it beyond its limits. Never venture alone into remote areas. Always tell someone where you’re going and when you’ll be back. If you get stuck, stay with your vehicle and wait for rescue; a car is easier to spot than a hiker. If lost while hiking, seek the closest shady spot and stay put. You’ll only get dehydrated and exhausted by walking around.
* * *
* * *
DETOUR: PIONEERTOWN
From Hwy 62 (Twentynine Palms Hwy) in the town of Yucca Valley, head 5 miles north up Pioneer Town Rd, and you’ll drive straight up a hill and into the past. Pioneertown (off Map; www.pioneertown.com) was built as a movie backdrop in 1946, developed by Roy Rogers, Dale