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Evans, Gene Autry and other Western stars, and has hardly changed since. The idea was that actors would have homes here, become part of the set and really live the Wild West life they acted out. The main street (Mane St) is lined with buildings that were used in countless Western movies and TV shows, including Gunfight at the OK Corral. You can witness a ‘real’ gunfight ( 760-228-0494; www.pioneertown-posse.org) in the street here from April to October at 2:30pm on Saturdays. It’s a little cheesy but highly kitschy, and kids love it.

Pioneer Bowl ( 760-366-3025; 56313 Mane St; 11am-7pm Sat & Sun, Apr-Oct) is an old-fashioned bowling alley built for Roy Rogers in 1947. It’s still in use, with original equipment and an amazing collection of vintage arcade games for which any good antique hound would pay big bucks. Its saloon sells beer and burgers.

Pappy & Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace ( 760-365-5956; www.pappyandharriets.com; mains lunch $5-11, dinner $9-25; opens 11am Thu-Sun, 5pm Mon, closing varies with shows) is an Old West honky-tonk bar that defines nightlife in the Joshua Tree area. Expect cowboy hats, cheap beer, and big-as-Texas Tex-Mex grub. Make reservations. Best of all, there’s free live music every night it’s open. Sometimes it has big names, from Leon Russell to Shelby Lynne, and you’ll need tickets.

Nearby are the marvelous Rimrock Ranch Cabins ( 760-228-1297; www.rimrockranchcabins.com; 50857 Burns Canyon Rd; cabins $103-157; ), built in the 1940s as the area’s first homestead. They reopened in autumn 2007 after a fire that ravaged outer Pioneertown. The four lovingly decorated cabins each come with a kitchen and a private patio, perfect for stargazing. Or try the more basic Pioneertown Motel ( 760-365-4879; www.pioneertownmotel.com; 5040 Curtis Rd; r $70-85) and board your horse in its corral ($15).

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JOSHUA TREE

Joshua Tree Inn (Map; 760-366-1188; www.joshuatreeinn.com; 61259 Twentynine Palms Hwy; r incl breakfast from $85; ) Gram Parsons overdosed at this large U-shaped motel (and his fans still flock here to stay in Room 8). Rooms have beamed ceilings and country-style furniture, the dining room has paintings by local artists and there’s a nice pool.

Spin & Margie’s Desert Hide-a-Way (Map; 760-366-9124; www.deserthideaway.com; 64491 Twentynine Palms Hwy; ste $125-160; ) Every boldly colorful, snappy-looking suite has its own kitchen at this delightful and homey four-room inn on three fenced-in acres. Design motifs include corrugated tin, old license plates and cartoon art. Charming, knowledgeable owners ensure a relaxed visit. It’s down the dirt Sunkist Rd, about 3.5 miles east of central Joshua Tree.

Rosebud Ruby Star (Map; 760-366-4676, 877-887-7370; www.rosebudrubystar.com; s/d $140/155, cabins from $155, houses from $235; ) Just south of Joshua Tree, near the western entrance of the park, this out-of-the-way Western-style charmer has two guest rooms, a cabin that sleeps up to five people, and two houses that sleep from four to six people. There’s a two-night minimum stay at peak times. No phones or TVs in rooms.

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EATING

Twentynine Palms

Wonder Garden (Map; 760-367-2429; 73511 Twentynine Palms Hwy; mains breakfast $3-6, lunch $5-10; 7:45am-3pm Mon-Sat; ) Southwestern colors and a weathervane usher you into this café. Look for turkey and melted brie or Reuben sandwiches, veggie wraps and all-important ice cream and smoothies.

Edchada’s (Map; 760-367-2131; 73502 Twentynine Palms Hwy; meals $6-12; lunch & dinner; ) Opinions vary on the food at this standard-issue Mexican eatery, but the margaritas are huge and you won’t leave hungry. Look for lunch specials.

Rib Co (Map; 760-367-1663; 72183 Twentynine Palms Hwy; mains $9-29; lunch Fri-Sun, dinner nightly; ) The fun atmosphere makes this roadside BBQ place worth a look. Expect sandwiches, burgers, chicken and ribs (some in Jack Daniels glaze), plus salads and sides.

Also worth visiting is the 29 Palms Inn (opposite), which makes it’s own bread, grills great steaks and serves a variety of nightly