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By Root 789 0

is three parts oil to one part vinegar, but because the vinegars I use are mild and extra virgin olive oil is quite assertive, I usually wind up at about two parts oil to one part vinegar, or even a little stronger. Somewhere in that range you’re going to find a home for your own taste; start by using a ratio of three to one and taste, adding more vinegar until you’re happy. (You may even prefer more vinegar than olive oil; there’s nothing wrong with that.)

Be sure to use good wine vinegar; balsamic and sherry vinegars, while delicious, are too dominant for some salads, fine for others. Lemon juice is a fine substitute, but because it is less acidic than most vinegars—3 or 4 percent compared to 6 or 7 percent—you will need more of it.

The ingredients may be combined with a spoon, a fork, a whisk, or a blender. Hand tools give you an unconvincing emulsion that must be used immediately. Blenders produce vinaigrettes that very much resemble thin mayonnaise in color and thickness—without using egg. They also dispose of the job of mincing the shallot; just peel, chop, and dump it into the container at the last minute (if you add it earlier, it will be pureed, depriving you of the pleasure of its distinctive crunch).

This is best made fresh but will keep, refrigerated, for a few days. Bring it back to room temperature and whisk briefly before using it.

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons or more good-quality wine vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 heaping teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 large shallot (about 1 ounce), peeled and cut into chunks

1. Combine all ingredients except the shallot in a blender and turn the machine on; a creamy emulsion will form within 30 seconds. Taste and add more vinegar, a teaspoon or two at a time, until the balance tastes right to you.

2. Add the shallot and turn the machine on and off a few times until the shallot is minced within the dressing. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve.

VARIATIONS

You can integrate almost anything that appeals to you into your vinaigrette. Some quick ideas, many of which may be combined:

• Any fresh or dried herb, fresh by the teaspoon or tablespoon, dried by the pinch

• Minced fresh garlic and/or peeled ginger to taste

• Soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, meat or vegetable stock, or other liquid seasonings, as much as 1 tablespoon

• Honey or other sweeteners to taste

• Whole-grain or dry mustard to taste

• Cayenne or hot red pepper flakes, minced fresh hot chiles, or grated or prepared horseradish to taste

• Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or other hard cheese, or crumbled Roquefort or other blue cheese, at least 1 tablespoon

• Capers or minced pickles, preferably cornichons, at least 1 tablespoon

• Sour cream, yogurt, or pureed soft tofu, about 2 tablespoons

• Ground spices, such as curry powder, five-spice powder, or nutmeg, in very small quantities

MAYONNAISE

MAKES 1 CUP

TIME: 10 MINUTES

WHETHER YOU WORK by hand or with a blender or food processor, it takes just five minutes to make mayonnaise, and when you’re done you have a flavorful, creamy dressing that is so far superior to the bottled stuff you may not recognize it as the same thing. Next to vinaigrette, it’s the most useful of all dressings, and despite its luxurious nature it contains little saturated fat. If you’re worried about the health aspects of using a raw egg, start with bottled mayonnaise and beat in a little oil and/or any of the suggested additions.

1 egg yolk

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup olive or other oil

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice or vinegar

1. To make the mayonnaise by hand: Combine the egg, mustard, and salt and pepper to taste in a medium bowl. Use a wire whisk to combine, then add the oil in a thin, steady stream, beating all the while. When the mixture becomes thick and creamy, you can add the oil a little faster. When it is all integrated, whisk in the lemon juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

To make the mayonnaise in a blender or food processor: Combine the egg, mustard, and salt