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By Root 765 0

and pepper in the machine’s container and pulse on and off a few times. With the machine running, slowly add the oil through the top or feed tube. When the mixture becomes thick and creamy, you can add the oil a little faster. When it is all integrated, pulse in the lemon juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

2. If the mayonnaise is thicker than you like (a distinct possibility if you’re using a machine), thin with warm water, sweet cream, or sour cream.

VARIATIONS

Like vinaigrette, the flavor of mayonnaise can be varied almost infinitely. Many of the suggested ingredients can be combined; use your judgment.

• Add a garlic clove at the beginning. Try adding ½ cup roasted red peppers (or canned pimiento) and a little cayenne at the same time.

• Vary the kind of acid you use: fresh lime or orange juice or any type of vinegar. If the acidity is too strong when you’re done, beat in a little warm water.

• Add 2 or 3 anchovy fillets at the beginning.

• Add any fresh herbs you like. Start with a small amount and taste, adding more at the end if you wish. If you’re using a machine, they will turn the mayonnaise green. If you’re working by hand, you will have herb-flecked mayonnaise.

• Add horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, or spices or spice mixes to the finished mayonnaise, tasting as you go.

Tartar Sauce

Combine 1 cup mayonnaise with ¼ cup minced cornichons or other pickles, 2 tablespoons minced shallot, and horseradish to taste.

Aïoli

Combine 1 cup mayonnaise with 1 teaspoon finely minced garlic and a pinch of saffron. Let rest for an hour or so before using.

BETTER COCKTAIL SAUCE

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

TIME: 10 MINUTES

THIS IS A rich cocktail sauce, laced with butter but made spiky with vinegar and horseradish. Make it as hot as you like and serve it warm or cold. It is a natural partner for poached, grilled, or otherwise cooked shrimp.

1 cup ketchup

1 tablespoon vinegar

3 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons prepared horseradish, or to taste

Combine the ketchup, vinegar, and butter in a small saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the butter melts. (At this point, you can keep the sauce warm for an hour—but make the heat as low as possible.) Add horseradish to taste.

SHALLOT-THYME BUTTER

MAKES 8 TABLESPOONS (½ CUP)

TIME: A COUPLE MINUTES

COMPOUND BUTTERS can be stored, well wrapped, in the freezer for two or three weeks.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened slightly

¼ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

10 chives, minced

1 shallot, minced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon red wine vinegar

Cream the butter with a fork, integrating all the ingredients, using about ½ teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Taste and add more of any ingredient you deem necessary.

VARIATIONS

Compound butters can be made with any seasoning you like: mustard, garlic, ginger, chiles, vinegar, or citrus juice and zest, just to name a few. In good weather, you can easily experiment with adding the fresh herb of your choice—chervil is especially nice, as are dill and parsley.

HORSERADISH-GINGER BUTTER

MAKES 8 TABLESPOONS (½ CUP)

TIME: A COUPLE MINUTES

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened slightly

1 teaspoon prepared horseradish or wasabi

1 teaspoon finely minced peeled fresh ginger

1 teaspoon good-quality soy sauce

Freshly ground black pepper

Cream the butter with a fork, integrating all the ingredients. Taste and add more of any ingredient you deem necessary.

GARLIC-OREGANO BUTTER

MAKES 8 TABLESPOONS (½ CUP)

TIME: A COUPLE MINUTES

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened slightly

1 teaspoon finely minced garlic or 1 tablespoon roasted garlic puree

1 teaspoon finely minced fresh oregano or marjoram

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Cream the butter with a fork, integrating all the ingredients, using about ½ teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Taste and add more of any ingredient you deem necessary.

CHILE-CILANTRO BUTTER

MAKES: 8 TABLESPOONS (½ CUP)

TIME: A COUPLE MINUTES

8 tablespoons