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TIME: 40 MINUTES

YOU MIGHT THINK of this Turkish dish as a kind of lamb shish kebab with a couple of twists. First of all, it can be executed indoors (though in good weather the initial browning could certainly be done on a grill). Second, it contains its own built-in sauce, a combination of yogurt and the juices exuded by lamb and roasted vegetables.

2 pounds boneless lamb, cut into 2-inch chunks (see Note)

3 red or yellow bell peppers

2 or 3 mildly hot fresh chiles, such as Anaheim (optional)

1 onion, peeled and cut in half

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 cups plain yogurt

1 to 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves (optional)

1. Turn the heat to high under a cast-iron or other large, heavy skillet; a couple of minutes later, add the lamb and quickly sear on all sides. Don’t worry about cooking it through, but brown the exterior well.

2. Remove the lamb and put the peppers and chiles if you’re using them in the same skillet, still over high heat. Add the onion, cut sides down. Cook until the peppers blacken on all sides, turning as necessary (the onion will blacken quickly; remove it and set aside). When the peppers are beginning to collapse, after 10 to 15 minutes, remove the skillet from the heat and cover with foil or a lid. Preheat the broiler and put the rack 2 to 4 inches from the heat source.

3. When the peppers cool slightly, peel and seed them, then cut or tear into strips; separate the onion into rings. Combine the peppers and onions with the lamb, salt, pepper, and yogurt (and thyme leaves if you like) in a roasting pan just large enough to hold the lamb in one layer. Broil until charred on top, just a few minutes, then serve.

NOTE

You can use either leg or shoulder. Leg is leaner and best kept on the rare side; shoulder, which has more fat, can be cooked a little longer without drying out, which means it can be left under the broiler for a few extra minutes to give it an extra-crisp crust.

BONELESS LAMB SHOULDER ROAST

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

TIME: ABOUT 2 HOURS

LAMB SHOULDER IS a bony cut of meat that easily can be turned into a boneless roast by any butcher, including those who work in supermarkets. The result is a round, tied piece of meat with lovely crevices into which you can stick a simple seasoning mixture like garlic and parsley. This is a traditional combination for lamb, and rightly so, because the flavors marry so well.

If you have them on hand, add two tablespoons of crushed coriander seeds (put them in a plastic bag and pound gently with a rolling pin, rubber mallet, or like object) to the parsley: they add a distinctive and alluring floral note to the dish.

1 cup fresh parsley leaves

4 medium or 2 large garlic cloves

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, more or less

One 3- to 4-pound boneless lamb shoulder

1. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Mince together the parsley and garlic until quite fine (a small food processor will work for this). Add a big pinch of salt and some pepper and enough olive oil to make a slurry. Smear this on and into the lamb, being sure to get it into every nook and cranny you can reach. Put the lamb in a roasting pan (you can line the pan with foil to facilitate cleanup if you like).

2. Roast for about 1½ hours, basting with the pan juices every 30 minutes or so. When the internal temperature reaches 140°F, turn the heat to 400°F and roast for about 10 minutes more, or until the internal temperature is 150°F and the exterior has browned nicely.

3. Let the roast sit for about 10 minutes before carving, then carve and serve, with some of the juices that come out during carving.

GRILLED BONELESS LEG OF LAMB

MAKES AT LEAST 6 SERVINGS

TIME: ABOUT 40 MINUTES

THERE MAY BE no meat better for grilling than boneless leg of lamb. It cooks reasonably quickly, usually in less than half an hour, but still develops an irresistibly crunchy crust. Even better, that crust can be flavored in minutes before it is cooked with any of a dozen combinations of seasonings. Marinating is unnecessary, as the meat itself has