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The leg’s irregular shape virtually guarantees that every eater will be happy—lamb is the only meat good at every stage of doneness. When the thickest parts have cooked to rare, the ends will be well done, the parts in between medium. Boneless legs sold at supermarkets are sometimes wrapped in an elastic net to form them into a round roast. For grilling, remove this so the meat lies flat. If the larger end of the meat is three or more inches thick, you might cut a flap to make that lobe thinner and flatter so that it cooks more evenly. Using a sharp, thin-bladed knife and working from the side of the lobe that faces the rest of the meat, make a horizontal cut about halfway down from top to bottom, most of the way through, and fold the meat out; in essence, you are butterflying the butterfly.

One 3- to 4-pound butterflied leg of lamb

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried

1 tablespoon chopped or crushed fennel seeds

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat a grill or broiler until quite hot; put the rack 4 inches from the heat source.

2. Trim the lamb of excess fat. Mix together the olive oil, garlic, rosemary, fennel seeds, salt, and pepper; rub this mixture well into the lamb, being sure to get some into all the crevices. (If time allows, it does no harm to let the prepared lamb sit in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours; just return the meat to room temperature before grilling.)

3. Sear the meat over the hottest part of the grill until nicely browned on both sides, 10 to 15 minutes. Continue to cook with the grill covered or uncovered for 5 to 15 minutes longer, until the internal temperature at the thickest part is about 125°F. Let rest for 5 minutes before slicing and serving.

VARIATIONS

If grilling isn’t an option, you can cook this dish in the oven: Put the broiler rack 4 to 6 inches from the heat source. Keep an eye on the lamb to prevent burning; the cooking time will be a little shorter. Or roast it in the middle of the oven, at 450°F, turning occasionally; the cooking time will be about the same.

Grilled Boneless Leg of Lamb with Coriander and Ginger

Use a combination of 1 tablespoon coriander seeds, 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, 1 tablespoon garlic, and 1 tablespoon peeled fresh ginger, all minced or coarsely ground together; moisten with a little soy sauce.

Curried Boneless Leg of Lamb

Rub the lamb all over with 2 tablespoons curry powder mixed with ½ cup yogurt.

Grilled Soy-and-Ginger Boneless Lamb Leg

Rub the lamb all over with 1 tablespoon olive oil, 2 teaspoons salt, 1 teaspoon cracked black pepper, 1 tablespoon minced garlic, ¼ cup soy sauce, 1 tablespoon peeled minced or grated fresh ginger. Serve with lemon wedges.

BREADED LAMB CUTLETS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 20 MINUTES

THOUGH THIS IS an unusual preparation, in many ways lamb is the meat most suited to this simple treatment. Like all cutlet preparations, it’s lightning-quick.

Eight 1-inch-thick medallions of lamb, cut from 2 racks or from the loin or leg

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 eggs

Panko (Japanese bread crumbs) or other bread crumbs for dredging

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground cumin or minced fresh rosemary (optional)

Chopped fresh parsley for garnish (optional)

1 lemon, cut into wedges

1. Preheat the oven to 200°F. If you’re using rib or loin slices, pound them lightly with the heel of your hand until they are about ½ inch thick. If you’re using leg, put them between 2 sheets of wax paper or plastic wrap and pound with a mallet or rolling pin until they are about ½ inch thick. Put a nonstick or well-seasoned skillet over medium-high heat and add the oil.

2. When the oil shimmers, dip a piece of lamb in the egg and press both sides into the bread crumbs. Add to the skillet; do not crowd—you will have to cook in batches. When the meat is in the skillet, season it with salt and pepper and sprinkle it with a pinch of cumin if you like.

3. As the meat browns,