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STIR-FRIED LEEKS WITH GINGER

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 30 MINUTES

A BIG DEAL is often made of washing leeks—they can be very sandy—but since you’re going to be chopping these, it’s easy.

2 large leeks (about 1½ pounds)

2 tablespoons peanut or olive oil

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1½ teaspoons soy sauce

1. Cut off the last couple of inches of dark green leaves, those without any pale green core, from the leeks. Then stand each leek up on its tail and use a sharp knife to “shave” the remaining bits of tough, dark green leaves off the stalk. When only white and pale green leaves remain, cut off the root, slice the leeks in half (or, if they’re large, into quarters), and chop them roughly. Then wash in a salad spinner (or a colander inserted into a large bowl) until no traces of sand remain.

2. Put the oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, and turn the heat to high. When a bit of smoke appears, add the leeks, all at once. Let sit for a couple of minutes, then cook, stirring only occasionally, for about 10 minutes.

3. When the leeks dry out and begin to brown, sprinkle with the ginger. Cook, stirring for 2 or 3 minutes, then add some salt (just a little) and pepper, along with the soy sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve.

PORCINI-SCENTED “WILD” MUSHROOM SAUTÉ

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 30 MINUTES

HOW TO GET great flavor out of ordinary white mushrooms? Add a handful of dried porcini. You will not believe the difference.

½ cup dried porcini

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 pound button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon minced garlic

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

1. Pour boiling water over the porcini to reconstitute; let them sit for about 10 minutes, or until tender, then drain and trim off any hard spots.

2. Put the olive oil in a large skillet over high heat; a minute later, add the porcini and button mushrooms, along with a big pinch of salt and some pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms give off most of their liquid and begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Turn the heat to medium-low and add the garlic. Continue to cook for a few more minutes, until the mixture is tender and glossy. Taste and adjust the seasoning, stir in the parsley, and serve hot or warm.

DRIED MUSHROOMS

THE BEST-TASTING dried mushrooms are dried porcini (also called cèpes), which have come down about 50 percent in price over the last few years. Try to find dried porcini sold in bulk, not in tiny little packages of less than an ounce each (these are a complete rip-off). If you live in a big city a major Italian or specialty food market will have them; otherwise, you can find good sources on the Internet. I usually buy about a pound at a time, which usually costs about fifty bucks and lasts me a couple of years.

SAUTÉED SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: ABOUT 20 MINUTES

I KNOW PORTOBELLO mushrooms are all the rage, but shiitakes are the closest thing you can find to wild mushrooms without going to a specialist. To me, they are invaluable, and prepared this simple, traditional way, they are spectacular. If you do happen to have some chanterelle, morel, or other wild mushrooms on hand, this is an excellent way to cook them.

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 pound shiitake mushrooms, trimmed of their stems (which can be reserved for stock but are too tough to eat) and sliced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon minced garlic or 2 tablespoons chopped shallot

Chopped fresh parsley for garnish (optional)

1. Put the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it is hot, add the mushrooms, then some salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

2. Add the garlic or shallot and turn the heat to high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms begin to brown and become crisp at the edges. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary, garnish with the parsley if you like, and serve hot or at room temperature.