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GARLIC-MUSHROOM FLAN

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 40 MINUTES

WE USUALLY THINK of custards as desserts, but they may be savory as well, and in that form they make luxurious starters or light, flavorful main courses. Custards like garlic flan are often served in top restaurants, but the simplicity and ease of this preparation makes them good options for home cooks. Here’s one with a surprise in it: cooked shiitakes. It will be a hit.

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon minced garlic

½ cup thinly sliced shiitake mushroom caps

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1½ cups chicken or beef stock

4 eggs

1. Put the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally and sprinkling with salt and pepper, until the garlic is fragrant and the mushrooms begin to soften, just 5 minutes or so. Stir the mixture into the stock.

2. Beat the eggs lightly and combine with the stock mixture. Put about an inch of water in a baking pan or skillet just large enough to hold four 6-ounce ramekins and turn the heat to high. When the water boils, turn the heat to low, pour the egg mixture into the ramekins, and put the ramekins in the water. Cover tightly with foil and/or a lid.

3. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, then check; the moment the custards are set—they should still be quite jiggly—remove them from the water. Serve hot or at room temperature.

MARINATED OLIVES

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 1 HOUR, LARGELY UNATTENDED

THE EASE WITH which this dish can be thrown together and the range of meals it happily accompanies (menus with European, Middle Eastern, or Northern African accents are game, as are good old American cook-outs) guarantee that it makes regular and frequent appearances on my dinner table.

An assortment of olives is far preferable to just one kind. Try, for example, some oil cured, some big fat green Sicilians, and some Kalamatas—just that simple combination will look bright and pretty. If you can lay your hands on more varieties, so much the better.

2 cups assorted olives

4 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon fresh rosemary leaves

1 small lemon, cut in half and segmented like a grapefruit

1. Toss all the ingredients together in a bowl. Marinate for an hour or longer at room temperature.

2. After the first day, refrigerate, then remove from the refrigerator an hour or two before serving. These will keep for weeks.

ROASTED PEPPERS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: ABOUT 1½ HOURS, LARGELY UNATTENDED

ROASTING GIVES AMAZING depth to vegetables, especially peppers. The simplest way to serve these is to drizzle them with extra virgin olive oil, along with some salt and pepper, but you can also add a few drops of vinegar. The next step is to garnish with anchovies, capers, and/or herbs.

4 large red bell peppers (about 2 pounds)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1. Preheat the oven to 500°F. Line a roasting pan with enough foil to later fold over the top. Put the peppers in the pan and the pan in the oven. Roast, turning the peppers about every 10 minutes, until the peppers collapse, about 40 minutes.

2. Fold the foil over the peppers and allow them to cool. Work over a bowl and remove the core, skin, and seeds from each of the peppers. It’s okay if the peppers naturally fall into strips during this process. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and olive oil and serve at room temperature. (You can refrigerate these, tightly wrapped or covered, for a few days; bring to room temperature before serving.)

GRILLED RED PEPPERS WITH OLIVE OIL AND SHERRY VINEGAR

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 30 MINUTES

THE STANDARD GRILLED pepper should be a part of every home cook’s repertoire. They’re a perfect accompaniment to nearly any simply grilled dish. Feel free to use a mix of yellow, orange, and red bell peppers if it appeals to you.

4 red bell peppers

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

1 tablespoon drained capers (optional)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper