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of molecules that break into positively charged hydrogen ions (H+) and negatively charged hydroxyl groups (OH–). The free H+ atoms could join with an OH– and form back into water, or they could bond to another water molecule, forming a positively charged H3O molecule. Under normal conditions, very little of this is going on, but if enough H+ ions start floating around, the whole mixture and anything in its vicinity could become unstable. Our bodies are designed to keep this from happening, so we have developed the ability to recognize any substance that releases H+ ions into the environment. We taste them as sour, and we call them acids. The more positive ions an acid releases, the stronger it is.

Substances that do the opposite of acids (accept positive ions) are called bases, or alkalis. The relative strength of acids and bases is measured on a pH scale, which runs from 0 to 14, with purified water at the neutral center of 7. Anything with a pH below 7 is an acid, and anything above 7 is considered alkaline.

The following chart lists the pH of some common substances. Notice that almost all foods are acidic (only egg white and baking soda are alkaline) and that ingredients that we don’t taste as sour at all, like fresh milk, are only a few pH points away from ingredients that taste quite sour, like vinegar. That’s because a decrease in pH of just 1 point indicates a tenfold increase in the concentration of hydrogen ions.

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pH OF COMMON SUBSTANCES

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Just as salt does (see the discussion on page 83), acids alter the structure of animal proteins and plant cells by disrupting their chemical bonds. A piece of fish or meat, submerged in an acidic marinade, begins to break apart; its fibers tenderize, it takes on moisture, and it forms bonds with flavorful elements in the marinade. Because acids release only positive ions, and salt breaks into both positive (Na+) and negative (Cl–) ions, brines are more effective than marinades at accomplishing these tasks. Unless you inject a marinade deep into the interior of an ingredient, it is difficult for it to have any tenderizing effect deeper than a fraction of an inch without making the finished dish overly sour. Adding sweet ingredients or dairy products to a marinade can help counteract its sourness.

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F. Glazes and Sauces

Glazes are sweet, and because of that they burn easily. Brush them onto grilling foods to add a caramelized sheen, but don’t expect the flavor of a glaze to penetrate past the surface. A glaze is most effective as a flavorful and textural counterpoint when used in conjunction with a brine or marinade.

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Sauces, salsas, chutneys, and other accompaniments are best used as table condiments with grilled meats. When paired with the right marinade or rub, they can make a grilled meal sing. But if you want to cook with sauces, use them like a glaze—only during the last few minutes of cooking—and then serve more for dipping at the table. There are hundreds of bottled barbecue sauces on the market and many are produced regionally, following the style of their region. For more information on regional styles of barbecue sauce, see the sidebar on page 391.

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Part II: The Grillmaster’s Recipes

Chapter 5

Mastering Burgers and Other Quick Meals

MASTERING TECHNIQUE

BASIC BURGER OR CHEESEBURGER

BASIC KEBAB

RECIPES

The Great American Hamburger and Cheeseburger

Steakhouse Burgers

Szechwan Scallion Burgers

Whole-Grain Mustard Burgers

Horseradish, Cheddar, and Apple Burgers

Spicy Black Bean Burgers

Roasted Pepper–Mole Burgers

Buffalo Blue Cheese Burgers

Bacon-Parmesan Burgers

Smoked Gouda and Bacon Burgers

Death-Defying Cajun Burgers

Herb Cheese–Stuffed Garlic Burgers

Wild Mushroom–Stuffed Rosemary Burgers

Chili-Stuffed Cheeseburgers

Turkey Burgers Stuffed with Pear and Sage

Green Peppercorn Burgers Stuffed with Gorgonzola

Hot Dogs Stuffed with the Works

Flaming Brandy Burgers

Meatloaf Burgers

Grilled Apple–Sauerkraut Pork Burgers

Miso Tuna Burgers

Smoked Crab Burgers

Smoked Salmon Burgers