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I love the natural bitterness of endive. Here I brown it first so it develops some sweetness and then braise it in orange juice and stock, which adds to the sweetness. The endive should be cooked all the way through, but it should still have some bite to it; it should not be mushy. This is a great side for rich or fatty foods, such as duck, a rib-eye steak, or even braised dishes like veal shank or short ribs.

Serves 4

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 Belgian endives, halved lengthwise

Kosher salt

2 garlic cloves, sliced

6 sprigs of fresh thyme

Grated zest and juice of 1 orange

½ cup Chicken Stock

2 tablespoons honey

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Heat a large ovenproof sauté pan over medium heat and add the olive oil. Place the endive in the pan, cut side down, season with salt, and cook until nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and sweat it for 1 minute. Add the thyme, orange zest and juice, stock, and honey. Bring to a simmer and then place the pan in the oven until the endive is cooked through and tender, about 20 minutes.

Remove the endive from the pan to a platter. Reduce the pan liquid over high heat to about ⅓ cup, swirl in the butter, and spoon the liquid over the endive.

BRAISED GREENS WITH SMOKY BACON

Liz’s mom makes collards, but I love any hardy green—chard, kale, mustard greens, beet greens—that can stand up to an hour’s cooking time in their own juices and take on the big flavors of bacon, garlic, and chilies. I finish them with a little honey and, depending how hot the chilies are, a shot of Tabasco or Sriracha sauce. This is what winter vegetables are all about.

Serves 4

½ pound slab bacon

3 tablespoons duck fat, lard, or olive oil

2 garlic cloves, sliced

2 shallots, sliced

2 fresno chilies, seeded and sliced

1 pound hearty braising greens, tough stems removed

¼ cup sherry vinegar

Kosher salt

¼ cup wildflower honey

Tabasco sauce

In a 6-quart saucepan over medium heat, cook the piece of bacon in the fat until the bacon begins to render some of its own fat, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, shallots, and chilies and sweat them for about 2 minutes. Add the greens and reduce the heat to low. Add the vinegar, a large pinch of salt, and the honey. Simmer the greens until they’re tender, about 1 hour. Season to taste with salt and Tabasco sauce.

FRIED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH WALNUTS AND CAPERS

I love Brussels sprouts and I cook them many ways—boiled, roasted, sautéed—but deep-frying them is the best. They develop a great flavor and a texture that you can’t get any other way. These are served with walnuts and a sharp red wine vinaigrette seasoned with anchovies and garlic. It’s an excellent side dish in fall and winter, and it goes especially well with big roasted meats. You can also take this in an Asian direction by omitting the capers and anchovies and adding soy sauce, fish sauce, grated ginger, and Sriracha sauce.

Serves 6 to 8

Canola oil, for deep-frying

1 garlic clove, minced

4 salt-packed anchovy fillets, rinsed, filleted, and minced

1 serrano chile, seeded and minced

¼ cup red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon honey

2 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced on the bias

½ cup walnut pieces, toasted (see Symon Says) and coarsely chopped

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed and quartered lengthwise

2 cups loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

2 tablespoons salt-packed capers, rinsed and patted dry

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pour enough oil into a medium pot so that the oil comes 3 inches up the sides. Heat the oil to 350°F.

While the oil is heating, whisk together the garlic, anchovies, serrano, red wine vinegar, honey, scallions, walnuts, and extra-virgin olive oil in a bowl large enough to toss all the Brussels sprouts. Keep the bowl near the stovetop.

Working in batches, deep-fry the Brussels sprouts until the edges begin to curl and brown, about 3 minutes. To the last