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By Root 160 0

batch, add the parsley and capers (stand back—the capers will pop and sputter!). Give the contents of the pot a stir. When the color of the parsley becomes a deeper, more saturated shade of green, about ½ to 1 minute, remove the contents of the pot with a skimmer and place directly into the bowl of dressing. Toss to coat. Add salt and pepper to taste.

CHICKPEAS AND SKORDALIA

There are two different skordalia sauces in Greece. One is made with potatoes and garlic, puréed until smooth, and the other with day-old bread, almonds, and garlic, puréed with lemon and olive oil so that it has a consistency like hummus. This is the one I really like. Traditionally, it’s served under fried fish, but it also makes a nice spread. Here chickpeas are folded into the skordalia to give it a great texture. This would be perfect with roast chicken (omit the salsa) or hanger steak. It can be made a couple of days ahead and refrigerated.

Serves 6 to 8

2 cups ½-inch cubed crustless day-old bread

1 cup whole milk

4 garlic cloves

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

1 cup almonds, toasted

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

1 cup cooked chickpeas

3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

Cover the bread with the milk and let it soak for 30 minutes.

Using your hands, wring excess milk from the bread (reserve the milk) and put the bread in a blender with the garlic, lemon juice, almonds, olive oil, and a three-finger pinch of salt. Purée this mixture until smooth, adding some of the reserved milk to bring it to a thick, hummus-like consistency. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the chickpeas. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt if needed. Stir in the parsley and lemon zest before serving.

GRILLED RADICCHIO WITH ORANGE AND BALSAMIC

This side is super easy and fast. It can be cooked on a grill or in a grill pan in less than five minutes. It’s a great side dish in spring and summer when you’re also grilling lamb chops or steaks. The grilling takes out some of the bitterness and brings out the lettuce’s sweetness, as do the orange and balsamic. You could also add a drizzle of honey and a sprinkle of chopped rosemary to this for a little more complexity, but it’s refreshing just with the vinegar and OJ.

Serves 4 to 6

2 heads of radicchio, quartered through the core

1 tablespoon olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Grated zest and juice of 1 orange

Preheat the grill.

Drizzle the radicchio with the olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Grill the radicchio for 2 minutes per side on a hot grill. Remove to a serving platter; sprinkle with salt and pepper; drizzle with the extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic, orange juice, and orange zest; and serve.

SEARED WILD MUSHROOMS

The biggest mistake people make in cooking mushrooms is not getting their pan and oil hot enough before they add the mushrooms. When the pan and oil are too cool, the mushrooms begin releasing their water into the pan, which prevents them from getting a good sear—the source of so much flavor. Another mistake is crowding the pan with too many mushrooms, which also results in steamed mushrooms. So cook your mushrooms in batches if necessary, and if you’re using a variety, cook only the same kind together, because they cook at different rates. I add garlic and shallots at the end of the cooking so that they don’t burn.

Seared and sautéed mush rooms go well with most meats and hearty fish, such as salmon or halibut.

Serves 4 to 6

1 pound wild mushrooms, preferably a mixture of oyster, chanterelle, and lobster

Olive oil or canola oil, for sautéing

Kosher salt

Small bunch of fresh thyme

2 shallots, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon unsalted butter

Slice the oyster mushrooms ¼ inch thick. Quarter or halve chanterelles lengthwise to make pieces of a similar size. Slice lobster mushrooms ⅛ inch thick.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat for 20 to