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30 seconds. Glaze the bottom of the pan with oil. Lay in the oyster mushrooms, taking care not to crowd the pan. Sprinkle the mushrooms with salt and add a few sprigs of thyme. Sauté, turning the mushrooms to brown them on both sides, about 6 minutes. Remove the mushrooms from the pan and set aside on a plate. Check the pan to see if you need to add another glaze of oil. Repeat the sautéing of the mushrooms, cooking each variety independently, and seasoning each batch with salt and sprigs of thyme.

When you are finished sautéing all of the mushrooms, add another glaze of oil to the pan if needed, and add the shallots and a sprinkle of salt. Cook for 30 seconds, then add the garlic, and cook for another 30 seconds. Add all of the mushrooms and the butter, stirring. When the butter has melted, the mushrooms are ready to serve.

SOFT POLENTA WITH MASCARPONE

The first step in making great polenta is buying great polenta. Chef Jan Birnbaum turned me on to Anson Mills, in South Carolina, eight or nine years ago, and I’ve never used any other company’s cornmeal since. Their milled organic heirloom grains are simply the best. The company also sells excellent grits and flours (see Sources).

Creamy polenta is like Italian mashed potatoes. Anytime you want a change from mashed potatoes, polenta makes a perfect substitute. In fact, I like to cook polenta to mashed-potato consistency—soft enough that it relaxes a little when it hits the plate, not too stiff, not too loose. Any leftovers can be refrigerated. Once the mixture sets up and becomes firm, it can be cut and fried or even grilled.

Serves 6 to 8

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter

½ small yellow onion, minced (½ cup)

1 garlic clove, minced

4 cups Chicken Stock

2 cups Anson Mills polenta

¼ cup mascarpone

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Kosher salt

In a 4-quart saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sweat them until translucent and aromatic, 5 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a simmer. Slowly add the polenta while whisking and reduce the heat to low. Cook over low heat for 2 hours, stirring frequently. Remove from the heat and whisk in the mascarpone, Parmesan, and remaining 4 tablespoons butter. Season to taste with salt.

WHIPPED ROOT VEGETABLES

This is a delicious substitute for mashed potatoes. The celery root and parsnips give the whipped vegetables a nice sweetness, while the turnips add a touch of contrasting bitterness. You still get the satisfying richness of mashed potatoes but you’ll keep your guests guessing as to what’s in them and why they taste so unusual and good. I prefer to use a food mill to “mash” the potatoes, but you can use a hand masher as well.

Serves 8 to 10

½ pound potatoes (about 1 large russet)

½ pound parsnips (about 2 medium)

½ pound celery root (about 1 medium)

¼ pound turnips (about 2 medium)

2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more to taste

½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

Peel the potatoes, parsnips, celery root, and turnips and cut into 1- to 2-inch pieces. Combine them in a large pot and cover with twice the volume of cold water and 1 tablespoon of the salt. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to medium, and boil gently until the vegetables are tender (insert a paring knife into a potato; there will be no resistance when they’re cooked), 20 to 30 minutes.

Strain the vegetables well and return to the pot. Let the pot sit for 5 minutes over low heat to cook off any excess liquid. Run the hot vegetables through a food mill into a large bowl. Add the remaining tablespoon salt and then whip in the butter.

Make sure your mix of vegetables is relatively dry after they are cooked and strained or they may be runny. The other big key here is to make sure your water is salted correctly when boiling the mix. Taste it; the water should taste pleasantly seasoned.

RED POTATOES WITH ARUGULA

This dish of potatoes seasoned with mustard and spicy arugula and enriched with cream is